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I'm going to see a bloke next week about rewiring my Darmah.. so as per the thread title, what should i be looking for in an updated wiring loom? what does/doesnt work?

I'm expecting relocated fusebox (behind side panel).. and reg/rec, and replace with a modern one?

any thoughts?

Seeing the term bloke I expect your one of us,if your anywhere around Sydney there is a bloke called Phil the wire who rewireded my Laverda,he used to do all of Gowys wiring jobs.Haven't seen him in a while but I have his mobile,any interest>

thanks but no I'm t'other side of the world from you blokes hadnt realised that i'd not added location to my profile, now sorted!

I've replaced the standard darmah fuse box with a more modern blade fuse arrangement but on the orginal mounting, it hasn't had a failure in 15 years. The Darmah wiring loom is actually very solid other than the wires from the CDI pickups. There's a lot of information about that on this site.

The other thing to consider is if you are still using the single cable thottle, replace it with a later MHR twin cable Verlicchi throttle from an MHR/S2 that also includes a stop/run switch. That's an easy mod with many tuning benefits.

Kev

NeilD wrote:what should I be looking for in an updated wiring loom? What does/doesnt work? I'm expecting relocated fusebox (behind side panel).. and reg/rec, and replace with a modern one?

I'm with Kev on this, Neil, i.e. simple answer: 'Not much'. The original loom generally does the job it was intended to. That said, modern connectors are better than the originals; and the loom can sometimes be simplified. Otherwise:

1. Yep, sure, change the fuse box. The design of the original one allows the contacts to spread and/or corrode (easily prevented by slipping a rubber band over them, btw).

2. And relocate it if you like. I haven't. (However, I accept that, in the original position, it's a bit difficult to access. But since it never bothers me, I don't bother it ).

3a. The failure of the insulation on the pick-up wiring is down to age. So simply use modern cable. WARNING: Rewiring the pick-ups can be a tad fiddly - don't cut the wires off too close to the pick-up.

3b. Also, as installed, the pick-up cable didn't have a connector block in it, where it comes down the frame. Putting one in here is a good idea so that, should the need arise, you can take the casing off and not leave it dangling.

4. The original reg/rec works fine - until it doesn't. But that's normal failure mode for any reg/rec. Replace it if you like - see next point.

5. The voltmeter is a curious device, prone to failure. Originals are hard to find, don't know what a modern replacement would be. However, a modern reg/rec should have its own charge warning circuitry (but check), which will need to be cabled in.

Can't think of much else. Switches work, lights work ... The idiot lights fail - you might want to change them with LEDs; but we're getting kinda fussy now ...

HTH

Craig

thanks all, some food for thought there.... especially the mention of a connector in the pick-up cable..

current loom is mostly original, which as usual is getting a bit frayed around the connectors and has a creeping green tinge under the insulation... a previous owner had done away with the fusebox and extended the original loom to incorporate inline fuses... however it was all done in black cable so and some of the crimping wasnt great..

I'll see what the electrickery man says next week...

3b. Also, as installed, the pick-up cable didn't have a connector block in it, where it comes down the frame. Putting one in here is a good idea so that, should the need arise, you can take the casing off and not leave it dangling.

That's a very good suggestion from Craig if you're going to be in there anyway. Shoulda been done by Ducati in the first place. I forgot that I also did that on my Darmah.

5. The voltmeter is a curious device, prone to failure. Originals are hard to find, don't know what a modern replacement would be. However, a modern reg/rec should have its own charge warning circuitry (but check), which will need to be cabled in.

I'm no electrictrian and the purpose of the voltmeter confused me for quite some time. I'm with Craig's implicit (and likely obvious to him!) thought that it's only purpose is to decide if the "Gen" idiot light should be lit or not. It basically seems to implement a bi directional voltage difference circuit that will cause the Gen light to come on whenever the circuit is being under or over charged. The design tolerances in each direction are in the owners manual. I've never had one fail, but I suspect that might be because I have a few spares!

Kev

Or the really lazy path that i took.
Buy a complete new Darmah loom from Gowie's