<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

My '77 has rubber[presume KLG] caps clamped on with metal clamp holding it onto the wire. Bike is original, 218 mi.

Yes!

The stands Froggie mentions are the way to go, I've seen them in the flesh and they work well. Much more stable than the stock setup being located at the middle of the motorcycle. I can relate to being 72 and using the centerstand, my Ducati's are easy but I have a '95 Hinckley Triumph that could ...

The 750 sidestand was/is nothing to write home about anyway, it stands the bike too vertically and is not at all stable. I took mine off 40yrs. ago! It rolls up on the centerstand so easily, especially with SS length shocks on it [to keep the pipes from grounding so easily]

Looking at the cases it wouldn't seem to be rocket science to modify a later stand with an extension under the rear facing bracket.It would probably have to be thin to avoid interference with the vert. cyl. exhaust pipe. Was maybe a single cylinder. stand adapted to work? I've only ever seen one ...

I did much the same on my 750, ST2 rotor and a modern single phase regulator. The 750/early 860 had a different alternator stator than the later 200 watt alternator. The red wire was what they called a center tap and had something to do with the rectifier curcuit [1/2 or 1/4 wave] and the internal ...

Long ago, not paying attention, On my front exhaust valve cover, I tightened one cover bolt fully and then installed the rest and tightened them. Shortly after, drip, drip, drip from the lower left corner. Inspection revealed a crack on the inside horizontally across and in line with the area the ...

Classic Motorcycle Day, May 19 2024 Mount Airy Md. Google Classic Motorcycle Day for info. Featuring Italian bikes but generally everything shows up. Usually a good turnout.

Steve's wire kit is good but as Craig warned it can be a bit daunting to install. The other ignition options are a better choice but will require coils and a bit of fabrication. If/when you go through the carbs, replace the choke pistons as the rubber seal in them gets hard and leaks causing rich ...

RE the ignition, try closing down your sparkplug gaps to .018"-.020" and see if it runs or at least tries to start. When the gaps are closer the ignition doesn't have to work as hard. But DO check and adjust the valve clearances first.

I suggest you start by replacing the ignition. The original Ducati Elettrotecnica[sp?] system was junk 40 yrs. ago. I would wager it's the reason the bike has such low mileage to begin with! The Sasche or Michael Arnott's Hand Held Dyno systems seem to be the way to go these days. I think the Sasche ...

It is a bottoming spring, to soften the jolt if all the travel is used up on a sharp bump. Its rate is much stiffer than the main spring.

You will have to take them apart and inspect the internal components. Disassembly is not too difficult and parts are available. Check your steering head bearings too, too loose will make noise over bumps

Heat the cover a bit, and try slamming the cover stator side down flat on a wood surface to jar it loose. Some stators are a tight fit in the cover and require coaxing to come out.

I don't think there are a lot of Mille's out there so the reference base on the bevel dry clutches is tiny. I've never been inside one but if they are anything like the dry clutch belt models, pressing the seal in the cover is best done with a tool that engages the diameter of the seal so it doesn't ...