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It is a bottoming spring, to soften the jolt if all the travel is used up on a sharp bump. Its rate is much stiffer than the main spring.

You will have to take them apart and inspect the internal components. Disassembly is not too difficult and parts are available. Check your steering head bearings too, too loose will make noise over bumps

Heat the cover a bit, and try slamming the cover stator side down flat on a wood surface to jar it loose. Some stators are a tight fit in the cover and require coaxing to come out.

I don't think there are a lot of Mille's out there so the reference base on the bevel dry clutches is tiny. I've never been inside one but if they are anything like the dry clutch belt models, pressing the seal in the cover is best done with a tool that engages the diameter of the seal so it doesn't...

Just a reminder, the engine turns clockwise[ as viewed from the left side of the bike] not like the belt drives or most everything else out there.

Did you check the resistance of the pickups? Is that what you meant for checking the continuity? You can test the resistance of the pickup coils pretty easily by checking across the two pickup leads for each cylinder, approx 220 ohm as I recall. What else you need to do is check for resistance betwe...

You might try soaking the plates in engine oil for a couple of hours, many clutch materials need to be fully saturated to work properly.

Didn't the late carbs have a jet or restrictor under the pilot jet? My memory is hazy about it but I remember there was something funky about the Late US spec. pilot circuits to limit the extent of adjustment.

Sounds like the cable needs cleaning and lubrication, cable binding in the housing. It twists when turning and unwinds suddenly. If you use light grease, lube cable except for the last 3 or so inches on the meter end as the grease can walk up the cable as it turns and foul the meter.

Somewhere in the dark recesses of my memory the figure of approx. 2mm seems to rattle around. Make sure the plates are completely un stuck, which will probably require it to be run/used and warm.

The 110/80 is a touch too wide for the SS fender. On my old 900SS racer I had to make some external brackets that bolted to the fender from the top and I cut the mounting ears off of the fender. I did this mostly to be able to run slicks back in the day. Air-Tech make a bunch of different fenders, t...

The gears should be pretty well lined up, the engine gear is fixed due to being mounted on a taper. There should be a thickish washer behind the clutch basket, between the case bearing and the bearings in the basket. You might have an issue with the bearings in the basket. There should be a spacer b...

The tach would be triggered off the neg. side of the coil. The electric tachs are known for not working however, so the question may be moot.

On the horiz. cyl. the intake valve will be partly open when in the correct position to install. Keep turning the bevel shaft until the dots line up. A light helps if the dot on the cam gear is under the washer. I think they only line up every four revolutions.

If the hex is just fully rounded, sometimes a Torx driver can be hammered into the hole so the flutes of the bit can grip the hole. I think a T25 or 30 is about the right size. Long ones are usually available at your local Harbor Freight or a decent parts store. If that proves fruitless get a good s...