<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Just for future reference to anyone interested, I’ve solved the problem of replacing the HT (Spark) leads.

Using a fine disk cutter, cut the hump part of the coil off, just above the centreline of the old cable. Next dig out the area around the end of the lead, which will expose a soldered joint ...

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply. Basically you have told me what I need to know, all I have to do now is have a go, but it would be nice to know exactly how, rather than experiment.

However I have tried to get in touch with uk-motoplat, as their web site seems to imply that they have the information ...

There must be someone out there that has had to change the HT (Spark) Lead on a Motoplat ignition coil, due to either getting burnt or perished! Mine is from a ’84 MHR and looks like it has been moulded in.

At a rough guess I reckon that somehow I will have to pull the cable out and use a silicon ...

Hi David,

I don’t know whether or not this picture of the inner dampening assembly might help, as I’ve recently taken the 35mm forks on my ’74 250 desmo apart, ready for refurbishing. If you need any other information or pictures please let me know.

Steve

http://www.rezolvit.com/Ducati/250 ...

Or if you are still looking, I purchased both from a company called The Vintage Bearing Company - www.vintagebearings.co.uk.

1 off standard 6306 (30x72x19)
1 off 6306 (30x72x19) with snap ring 78.6mm od

I think that these are the ones that you are on about which fit my '74 250

Good luck,
Steve

Hi Peter
Now you come to mention it, the additives that I’ve also been using for lead free has also helped.
As I’m currently rebuilding my Desmo 250 I can’t wait to see what effect this is also going to have, as I’m not going to replace the valve seats. I don't know if anyone else has anything else ...

Hi Peter,

Just seen your reply, as I’m also travelling at the moment, but sadly business not pleasure.

I’m glad that you had a good time, as Devon and Somerset at this time of year can be a very nice place.

As for the book that you mentioned, I’m finding great difficulty in locating it, but I ...

Now sorted, it seems all that I needed was an inch diameter bar a couple of feet long and a bloody great mallet. During this process, minimal damage was inflicted on the inner assembly. I can now carry on.

Steve

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the info, I'll look that reference book up.

As for anything to do with Bevel's in the South West, I'm quite sure that anything that was around has now dried up, or turned into the later style Ducati franchise. I'll keep my ear to the ground, maybe I'll find something for your ...

Hi Peter

Thanks for the quick responce.
The engine number is 909203 DM860

I originally bought this bike in Germany, but I think that the shop imported it from Holland.

Cheers
Steve

If anyone is still following this thread, to which I have found very interesting, maybe someone can throw some light on my 900MHR issue, to which I am now really confused.

Frame number DM900R1 * 906382 * DGM51147OM

I was told when I bought this from new many years ago, 1984, that this was an S2 ...

I remember back in the ‘80’s I also had this problem with my SD and told exactly the same thing that there wasn’t a risk, but fortunately, I was able to find another replacement head, to which I realise, could be a bit of an issue now.

Sorry I couldn’t have given you better advice, like after 15 ...

Thanks Craig

I stand corrected, ’74.

I shall just forget that I ever looked at the frame stamping and carry on with the rebuild. I’m sure that there are plenty more questions to come.

Cheers
Steve

I’m confused :?: , this just a question of interest to see if anyone has an answer. I know my motor is a 250 widecase single, year 1984, and on the engine next to the engine number is stamped DM250D, however the frame is stamped DM250GT.

Is this telling me that the same design of frame from the ...

:( These forks have been lying around for the last 25 years and I guess the insides of the stanchion have gotten all gummed up. No matter what I've tried so far, the damper assembly won't budge. Soaking in a releasing fluid (releasall) for two days and gentle persuasion with a sized bar and mallet ...