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Loom

Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:03 pm
by Gum
Dont suppose you remember the colour of the wire to that Festoon. Mine looks like its wired to the back of the headlight block, does not look like it been fiddled with. Its an easy change, I just unplug a few wires. So you saying, the festoon is the clear and the ignition. Im sure your right, mine was mostly in pieces when I got it.

Thanks Gum

Switch

Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:05 pm
by Gum
While im at it, can you tell me or post a pic of the headlight switch. Which position should it be in in the headlight. I have looked but to no avail.

Thanks Gum

Off the track

Posted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 5:09 pm
by Gum
I know this has nothing to do with this but it may shed light on why its all so different. I have just rebuilt my Scarab Master and has it resleaved. Its only has half of the parts in it that it should if I go by the parts manual. Im missing one seal, one valve and a spring. Just incredible what the parts book has that my bike does not.

Thanks Gum

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:43 am
by machten
Hope this is of some help. As I said previously, this bike has been rewired by someone else, so I don't know how faithfully they have followed the colour coding, but what I've had to trace in other areas so far has been correct. I haven't got my wiring diagram handy at the moment so i can't check the headlight wire colours for you.

A good indicator of an original wiring harness on all roundcase twins would be to look for the Earth wire loop running through the harness. On the stock setup that black wire is half the thickness of the other wires. The theory being that as it was a loop it only need to handle 1/2 the current. A loop is a good idea, as it gives you a built in earth backup. Which was fine until the the loop was broken by a wire break or a bad connection forced more of the current down the remaining path. Then you can get a very hot wire running right under your fibreglass fuel tank. When making a new harness, people usually ditch the 12/10 earth wire and use the standard 24/20 wire.

The ignition on light is white rather than "clear". See pic below.

I wansn't sure what you meant about the headlgiht switch, but I've included some pics of that too.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Kev

Tar

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:04 pm
by Gum
Thats really good, it would have saved me some time I think if I had them before I wired it up. What I was after was the little key that turns the headlights on, I can now see that. Mine is chrome, yours is black, I think.

One more thing, when on the bike which way does the key turn for park and headlights. Thanks Gum

PS, my headlight bucket has a dog doodie load more wires in than yours, yours looks very neat, is that because its been rewired ???

Thanks Gum

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 11:35 pm
by machten
Gum,

Lights - clockwise
Park - anticlockwise
PS, my headlight bucket has a dog doodie load more wires in than yours, yours looks very neat, is that because its been rewired ???
Mine hasn't got a relay in the headlight which saves a bit of wire, but it would better if it did with those tin pot Aprilia switches. No doubt when it gives me some grief at some stage, I'll put one in.

The wiring on mine seems pretty neat all round. The only problem I've ever had is with a loose connection into the Aprilia fuse box (out in the middle of nowhere as it was getting dark, of course!) - which is a common issue with them.

The whole setup in mine looks like this:

Image

Kev

Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:01 pm
by jannypan
I can't be sure on the colours. On mine the blue is a common power to the high/low switch and then green and yellow wires from there into the headlight globe poles. US wiring may also have been different. I seem to have in my mind they didn't have park lights for some reason, but I'm not sure.