76 900SS RESTORATION

MartinMille BANNED · Post by **MartinMille BANNED** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:24 pm

video #1 its comes home ????
where has it been ?
did you buy it back from somewhere or was it stored?

Video #2
What shocks are they

Video #3
dual seat since your not repairing it how much do you want for it ?

Video $4
you slack arse you never showed us your Missus

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:42 am

i moved from Qld to SA about 3 years ago
left the beast with my son-who lost/trashed a few critical parts
it came home to me a couple of months ago

koni shocks-about 1980-original marzocs have been listed as mia

if i sell the duel seat it wont only be you who doesnt see me missus

cheers steve

MartinMille BANNED · Post by **MartinMille BANNED** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:47 am

HAHAHAHHAHAHA or anything else for that matter

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:11 am

hey,
i bought that seat from a guy in about 1980
i think he got it with his new 76
the 76 came small carbs,exhausts&dual seat plus a race kit-40mm's ,contis single seat
the shop i got mine from fitted race kit & reduced sale price-then put small stuff on shelf for sale

the seat never had a lock in the back-someone must ve lost key-butchered fibre glass to open & ditched lock
i used to keep flap closed with insulation tape-colour depended on bike colour at the time

the cover is in good condition-i ll probably just repair glass and paint myself
then again i never really liked riding on it because you sit higher than on the single
thinking about getting single seat base-cutting it back to leave small hump&enough room for 2 bums

so i may sell it-whats it worth?

cheers steve

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:07 am

it was an 860gt not darmah!
it wouldnt run due valve sized hole in rear piston-damn valve collet

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:32 am

straight 50 grade oil needs a good warm up

Hopper · Post by **Hopper** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:46 pm

nottonight68 wrote:it was an 860gt not darmah!
it wouldnt run due valve sized hole in rear piston-damn valve collet

Sorry. I must have been going past so fast on the Triumph I was unable to see what model it was.
'
Sure was an awesome hole in the piston though. I bet the old man has a pic of that somewhere. Probably still has the bloody piston in his shed somewhere.

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 3:09 am

any experience with spokes
haven a real head f... at the moment

Hopper · Post by **Hopper** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 3:09 am

nottonight68 wrote:any experience with spokes
haven a real head f... at the moment

Just did my front wheel a while ago. Best tip I have is draw a circle around the rim on the bench, find the centre and drill a hole in the bench top for the axle to fit in. This holds the hub in place.

Screw wooden blocks to the bench around the outside of the rim to hold it in place. Put wooden shims under the rim to get the correct offset.
Then put all the spokes in place (this is the h/f, helps to have photos of the wheel from before to use as a pattern.)

Put the nipples on and tighten up. With the hub and rim held in place, you can go round and tighten the nipples evenly and get a good tension on them.

That way, when you put it in the truing stand, it is running within a few mm of true and you just do the final tension and true on the stand.
I usually get it true, then come back a day later and get it even better, etc etc until it is within 1.5mm or less. 2mm runout is acceptable according to most factory manuals but I like to get it within 1mm if I can.

Old rims that are wobbly can be a pain, and be aware that even a new rim has a wobble where the join/weld is.

I will dig out some pics and post them.

Also, oil all threads before starting and make sure all the nipples screw all the way onto all the spokes before starting. An old nipple with a hacksaw cut in it can be used to clean up threads on spokes and vice versa. It is a pregnant dog to discover tight threads after getting the wheel three quarters assembled and then hve to pull spokes out etc.

Hopper · Post by **Hopper** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 3:30 am

Here is a couple pics to go with the previous post, lifted from my resto thread elsewhere.
I did not take many pics because the job is such a h/f I had no patience left for pics.
Yeah yeah I know that is a funny looking Ducati wheel but WTF.

[QUOTE=Hopper;1249650]
Pic: Truing stand.

And I use the truing stand for balancing by adding a pair of loose worn old wheel bearings with no seals and all greased washed out with WD40. It works a treat. Takes me days to get the balance just right though. I have it on the bench and give it a spin when I am working on other stuff and then change weights when it stops etc.
Pic: Balancing stand detail.

Now here is a really, really good wheel lacing trick I learned from an old time mechanic and engineer who lives up the street from me. I drilled a hole in my old workbench the right size for the axle to fit in. Before taking off the old rim, i drew around it and screwed three blocks of wood to the bench in the right position to hold the new rim concentric to the axle. I also put some strips of 1/4" scrap pegboard unde the new rim to give the 1/4" off set I wanted. Then when you lace the new rim on, it is held in place and you tighten the spokes evenly all round. When I put it up on the truing stand, it was within about 1/8". In the past, just doing it all loose on the bench, I wouild get it anywere up to an inch out of whack. :laugh

Pic: Hole in bench and wooden holding blocks to spoke wheel true.

The HD manual says to true to within 1/32" but I looked at my BMW and Honda factory manuals and they specify 2mm (.080" about 3/32"). But at .080" that wheel just looked whacky to me. I figure the MoFoCo has been lacing wire wheels since 1903 and on that score, knows what it is doing. Finally, after much fiddling, got it within .020" measured with a piece of wooden dowel clamped to my stand a feeler gauge. (Cheaper than a dial indicator).

So, front wheel back in bike. Front end all rebuilt and polished. New seals, new brake seals top and bottom, new genuine HD brake hose, 100/90 Metzeler tyre just scraped in between the fender stays with a match head clearance each side, repainted, rebuilt caliper, new handlebar switch internals, steering head bearings greased and adjusted.

It is starting to look like a bike again, not just a bare frame. That is a major motivator. Sometimes you just have to do that after spending weeks and weeks working and it still just looks like a bare frame surrounded by boxes of parts and a dead engine sitting there on the bench.

Woohoo. Beautiful. Its a bike again. It has a wheel. And handlebars. :tour

banana

My baby.

uh, yeah that is a funny looking Ducati, but the principle is the same.[/QUOTE]

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 3:46 am

wow
more techno stuff ppplease

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:01 am

hey man
your forte is probably wheels mine wiring
noone seems interested talk toyou soon

Hopper · Post by **Hopper** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:31 pm

I'll give you a call after work some night when I get home early enough.

The other thing to make sure is that you have a set of spokes that are made to use with your old original rims, and are not made to use with a modern double-crossover rim.

The modern double-crossover rim is what you will see used on the modern Harleys (cant think of any other new bikes still using spokes

).

Your old rim has the dimples arranged one to the left of the rim centre line, then one to the right, one to the left etc.

Modern double-crossover rims have the spoke nipple dimples arranged in pairs, two dimples to the left, two to the right, two to the left etc. This means the spokes will be slightly different lengths from those used in the traditional spoke patterns, I think.

Buchanans are the best stainless spoke suppliers I know of. Even with shipping from the US their prices are good.
http://www.buchananspokes.com/DUCspokes.htm

And this guy here has a good description of lacing a Ducati wheel.
http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/wheel/wheel.html

The other thing you have to look at is there is not only different length spokes, but different lengths of the short right-angled piece on the hub end, depending on which way they cross over. Also, those short ends of the spokes can be bent at different angles, so all that has to be sorted out before you start to assemble the wheel.

Also, as per the sketch in the above bloke's post on lacing a duke wheel, the crossed pairs of spokes on each side of the hub are staggered one hole out of sync with each other.

Simple huh?

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:31 am

im still waiting on my 3rd set of spokes-they seem to have dissapeared into the ether! illhave a go when i get correct spokes

MartinMille BANNED · Post by **MartinMille BANNED** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:00 am

Nice array of NOS parts Steve.......but dude your pictures suck