<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Dana,

I like how you think...hmmmm...free bike...killer upgrades.
Word is the man to contact at Marchesini is named Maximiliano a/k/a Max, but I don't recall his last name.
Peter Mille indicated they make cast aluminum replicas, but I wonder what a pair of forged aluminum would cost. I would be interested in knowing what you find out from Marchesini.

Chris

Starting with removing the rear caliper, then instrument removal, rear cylinder breather can, and then ending with taking the battery out.

http://darmahproject.blogspot.com/

I noticed on your blog that the exhaust nuts were loose upon removal. If the nuts haven't been drilled for safety wire, with a corresponding anchor point on one of the cylinder head fins for each nut, they will continue to become loose due to vibration regardless of the amount of torque applied when tightening the nuts.

In addition to the exhaust nuts, I have safety-wired all hardware for the rotor carriers, rear sprocket, brake calipers, oil filter, and rear suspension. Better safe than sorry.

......Resist the temptation to bead blast the disk surfaces.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_wa ... disk.shtml

.

The gist...

The obvious question now is "is there a 'cure' for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.

Carroll Smith, "The 'Warped' Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System", www.stoptech.com, Stoptech, LLC, 2004.

Osred wrote:I noticed on your blog that the exhaust nuts were loose upon removal. If the nuts haven't been drilled for safety wire, with a corresponding anchor point on one of the cylinder head fins for each nut, they will continue to become loose due to vibration regardless of the amount of torque applied when tightening the nuts.

In addition to the exhaust nuts, I have safety-wired all hardware for the rotor carriers, rear sprocket, brake calipers, oil filter, and rear suspension. Better safe than sorry.

One of the exhaust nuts had been drilled (the one that was loose) but the safety wire was broken. I've got an exhaust nut tool coming in the mail, hopefully it'll be here in a week or so.

Good point on safety wiring this stuff.

Felt stupid all day Saturday, had added some oil to the Miata engine and then forgot to put the cap back in, oil all over. Grrrr. Took me hours to clean it all up, and of course there are bits the oil will never really come out of.

Someone was looking for tha campagnolos I believe. There are a pair currently on the german ebay site.
http://cgi.ebay.de/Campagnolo-v-Ducati- ... dZViewItem
Or
www.ebay.de
and type
Ducati campagnolo

the v in the description means Vorne - front
the h in the descritpion means hinten - rear

Wow what a sore! must be nice to know you have a 100% original bike in every way, it may take you a while but the end result will be worth the wait

Martin

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2386/155 ... 6021_b.jpg

Took the upper triple clamp off the Darmah today and was left with the threaded steerer tube and this wee beastie of a nut.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2403/212 ... 69f2_b.jpg

I've seen these on bicycles before, and had a tool for my first Klein Quantum Pro that was similar to what is needed here. Unfortunately I did not have a tool this size right now. So, I went over to the local motorcycle store to get one. http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/ They used to sell Ducatis so they must know where I can get a tool, right? They acted like they had never seen a threaded steerer tube. Talked about how forks are held on with nuts and clamps and things now. Ok...

So, I called the local Ducati dealer. http://www.indyducati.com/ They must know where I can get a tool, right? They suggested I use a chisel. They said, "We use a chisel." Remind me to shop there... Aargh!

After that... I had a pizza with my friend Jim who had come over to help me take the fork off, and then I went home and called Bevelheaven. http://www.bevelheaven.com/

Steve suggested I call a bike shop (which is what I should have done the moment I saw the setup). There is a neat little shop close by my house called ICS. I stopped in, and five minutes later had a Park Tools HWC-5. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2025/212 ... ee49_b.jpg Once I got back to the Darmah it tool me less than a minute to get the nut off, and the fork dropped straight out.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/212 ... 4bdf_b.jpg

Thanks Steve!

You will find that most workshops use pin punches for the removal of these securing nuts, the SSD has the same set up as well.

Martin Mille / SSD wrote:You will find that most workshops use pin punches for the removal of these securing nuts, the SSD has the same set up as well.

That might be true or not, I don;t know. But no one will EVER use a drift pin or a punch on one of my bikes. Thanks for posting the exact tool name/model that fits and works Dana...

http://darmahproject.blogspot.com/