<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Error correction. I had mistakenly thought that the spring went into a hole in the swing arm, but I found out where it really belongs, and that is a small metal loop on the frame, left side.

Still a good idea with the coins, and I shall try that. Thank you.

Any hints on how to re-install the durned spring? Not sure about the "pregnant dog" comment, but I can surmise that it means a challenge of sorts. I'm putting the stand on after many years off; do I put the end of the spring on the loop in the stand first, then fight with the hole on the bottom of t...

One more time. I have put photos, with brief comments, on the following Flickr website: https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157713738916316 As mentioned in my previous posting (with unsuccessful posting of pics, now on the Flicker page above...), the plates arrive unfinished. I chos...

I purchased two of them from Steve to replace the cracked and faded plastic originals. They are unfinished, and so they will require finish work. I primed them with etching primer: Then I polished the lettering: Then I carefully masked the lettering, and painted the piece with VHT chassis gloss blac...

Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions. I did make sure that the threads in the fork tube were good. I bought new fork top nuts from Steve, and mated them with the fork tubes without preload, to make sure that a good mating of both sets of threads occurred. The suggestion to mark the "click" spot...

Thanks kindly for the tip; that will be very useful, and I appreciate that. Yeah, if by preload, you mean working against the springs to set the nut, I am feeling a lot more resistance with the Worx kit parts in than with the original spring. Maybe I am just too weak. Anyway, your tip about marking ...

I must be missing a technique. When attempting to re-install the nut at the top of the forks, after rebuilding and installing Steve''s Worx fork kit, I am unable to get the nut started on the threads while pushing against the fork springs, using Steve's recommendation of turning the nut COUNTERCLOCK...

If you read what I put in the original post, you will see that the LED lamp would not even fit into the capture ring, so there is no way that I could possibly answer your question about night riding, since the LED lamp would not fit into the shell.

Got that?

This was a bench test, a sensible precursor to a road test.
So, your question of it improving the lighting riding in the dark is not something that I can answer from a bench test.

In trying to alleviate the load on the somewhat anemic alternator, I purchased an LED lamp from Autobaba, which was supposed to be a replacement for the 6014 unit in my bike; big mistake: the unit would not fit into the capture rings in the headlamp shell. It was slightly too big in diameter. Also, ...

Given the somewhat anemic output of the 860GT alternator, I have embarked on a new episode of self-torture, in retrofitting LEDs into the bike to alleviate the stress on the alternator. I had installed the LED dash light kit that Steve and others offered, and all went well with one exception: the tu...

Thanks, 81. I've been toying with the idea of putting a washer on both sides of the mudguard, to give just a teeny bit of distance between the mudguard sheet metal and the wheel carrier. As of now, I cannot think of a reason not to. Thin washers are readily available, and the smallest gap would like...

Hi again, I hit the "submit" button before I was finished with the stud removal post, so here's the rest of the info: All studs came out with no stubbornness or damage, which is good, because the studs, Ducati part # 0684.37.583, are apparently made of the rare element "unobtainium", as I could not ...

Thanks, Steve, I don't trust myself to not let go of the mudguard while it is under tension when remounting it, so I chose to unscrew the studs using the tried, and occasionally successful, method of using two nuts with an external toothed lockwasher between them, and then replace the studs through ...

Hi Gentlemen, I'm in the process of getting the sheet metal on my 1975 860GT painted. As most of you know, removing the front fender ("mudguard") necessitates squeezing the two fender/mudguard mounting tabs/tangs off of the mounting studs (4 on each side) towards each other enough to clear the studs...