<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Bumping this old thread, any more suggestions regarding what's the best set up for a 83 900SD running PHF 32. I have recently installed Silent Hektik ignition, but still it runs a bit rough. Especially the front cylinder seems to struggle. I have refurbished the carbs, looked for air leaks and adjus...

You need to check them with the float needle just closed and not compressing the little springy thing on the float needle. The float itself should move freely on the spindle. Scum can form on the spindle if the carbs were stored with fuel in the float bowls and it evaporated over time. Thanks wdiet...

Thanks again for the tips. I had a brief look at the carbs today still mounted on the bike. Measured the floats which are 24mm below the edge on the front cylinder, and 34 mm for the rear. I guess here is something wrong, they should be the same or? When I put the carbs on the table with the air fil...

Thanks Lumpy, I will start with having a look at the floats.

Thanks for the tips. I forgot to mention that I recently replaced the Bosch ignition with Silent-Hektik, so I quite sure it is not the ignition. How to I check the float levels?

My 900 Darmah runs nice at lower RPM, but around 5000 I am loosing one cylinder. If I accelerate hard it starts around 4500, and if I go slowly I can push it to 6000. So my conclusion is that it is fuel related. I adjusted the needle to slot 3, which made the engine run better but did not resolve th...

Thanks for the advise wdietz, will try to do that. Will it help to loosen the head nuts iot turn the tube? I guess it also is possible to lose the be lower bevel support and wiggle this back and fort to have the O-ring settle better? When it comes to swing the engine down, that is the second option....

Started the engine on my Darmah today after assembling the bike after a total strip down, repainting, rewiring and some service on the engine. The good news is that the engine started immediately and ran very nice. The bad news is that I think I might have a minor oil leakage from the lower bevel su...

Thanks Mark, that was a very useful article to understand the synchronization of the engine. I think I got it right, but will double check once more before I try to fire up the engine. The engine is still out of the frame, so it won't happen before in a month or so, depending on how I am progressing...

Thanks again Bruce, that makes sense. I have the heads of the engine now, so I guess both valves being closed with no pressure on the valve is what I should measure?

Thanks for your reply Bruce. I have worked on the engine today and mounted back the cylinders, will go for the heads tomorrow. After playing around with the engine it seems like there are 3 different positions for the bevel when the vertical cylinder is TDC, an only one where the shaft couplings fit...

Thanks Joseph, I think I got it now. I am waiting for some parts before I put i together again.

Thanks again Ducldini, this was way more complicated than I initially thought. But I think I slowly get it. As of now the to shafts/Oldham couplings are both in the same position with the "face"/flat part facing out to the right. But the vertical piston is more or less at the bottom and no...

Thanks for your reply Ducaldini, So this means that even if both shafts will fit (the two half of the shafts fit together), it might not be in synch with the heads even when dots at heads are aligned? Iow one 180 turn of the shafts does not bring the engine back to the same position? Or am i misunde...

I have removed the tops for some cleaning and maintenance. The dots at the top is aligned. But I had to turn the engine around without the top on the engine. Will it be in synch as long as the shafts are in the correct position correct (the half shafts fit together) and the dots are aligned? If not,...