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What has worked in the past for me is turning the tube some to relax the o ring that has twisted slightly in its seat. This happens when the tube is pushed in and the ring catches on the tube and distorts allowing oil past. Turning the tube can be difficult due to the limited clearance but I've been able to use a pair of "hose gripper" pliers with a strip of leather to protect the chrome.The hose gripper pliers are a pair of needle nose that have the ends formed into a round shape to go around the hose and grip it to twist and pull it loose. Most places that sell automotive tools sell them. If that doesn't do it, dropping the engine is the only way to pull the head high enough to access the o ring. You can undo everything and swing the engine down on the lower rear motor mount bolt but watch you don't scratch up the side covers on the front frame tubes.

Thanks for the advise wdietz, will try to do that. Will it help to loosen the head nuts iot turn the tube? I guess it also is possible to lose the be lower bevel support and wiggle this back and fort to have the O-ring settle better? When it comes to swing the engine down, that is the second option. When I looked at the bike today my impression was that this will not either give very much space to lift the head. But I guess I dont have to lift it of, just get it high enough to get the tube out of the lower bevel support so the O-ring can be replaced.

Magnus, You don' need to loosen the cyl. head nuts. the tube has clearance on both ends when the head is bolted down. Just turning the tube a bit each way usually does the trick. Others have cleaned around the base of the tube and the top of the bevel housing and smeared silicone sealer into the crack between them, you can do a pretty neat job if you take the time. It only takes a thin skin in the gap.

The new link to the willyg is now.......

https://willyg.ddns.net/Bevel_Timing/timing.html