<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Lumpy,
To get on top of some of the "peculiarities" of Ducati, We have to be inventive
But I guess that, even with the o-ring at that place (without interfering the shimming) oil can get through the splines of the shaft and when dismantling the sprocket the source isn't Always clear.
In my opinion, build-up of crankcase pressure is the primary reason to push oil higher than the standard level.
In some Ducati engines that pressure was used to lubricate, but not in the bevels

Good of You to keep a record on the work You've performed on the bike.


ciao
ducadini

dessmo wrote: ↑Fri Aug 18, 2017 2:29 am The tool is rather expensive, but I guess there is no way around it.

There are alternatives to what I proposed. Look around on the web. For example, I am told by a usually reliable source that this fits. But I have no personal experience, so at your risk:
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2918

Stein Dinse also sell one:
http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Ducati/Werkz ... :5460.html

Btw, the lock nut - correctly called an "Axial lock nut", btw - is a KM07. The lock washer is a MB07. The OEM of both was SKF. You can sometimes find the lock nut with an integral inner oil seal which helps. (SKF will also sell you the tool (TMFS 7) to do them up - but at an SKF price, of course.)

Both will be available from good bearing suppliers - or again look around on Tinternet, e.g:
https://www.123bearing.co.uk/accessory- ... t-KM07.php

Remember, you also need a way of locking up the sprocket. My preference is to use the proper tool; but in any event, and as Ducadini says, do NOT try to do it by standing on the rear brake. Both Nigel Lacey and Mdina Italia sell them.