That's an interesting description. I would have thought a BMW is refined. How is an SS more refined than a Darmah? Rawer, yes - refined, no.
Taking the bait...
Kev
darmah with 40mm dellortos is it worth it?
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- BLABBERMOUTH
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- BLABBERMOUTH
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- Location: Adelaide S.A.
Hi there,
my '80 Darmah is equipped with 40 mm carbs and starts and idles very good - can't be better ! High end performance with Contis is great > 200 km/h ! Torque at low revs is fine with Lafranconis and gets worth with Contis, but is still o.k.. It runs well with both set ups, the engine always feels good and always delivers performance. Even in town it is good to drive.
May be you just need to find the perfect set up of the 40mm Del'Lortos - then you would not think about changing to the 32 mm carbs.
In 1979 the main german motorcycle newspaper "Motorrad" claimed the 40mm carbs would be better than the 32mm carbs in any manner !
See/listen my Darmah after 13 years of rest - 40 mm carbs fitted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1hIWFWHnlo
Have fun
Joe
my '80 Darmah is equipped with 40 mm carbs and starts and idles very good - can't be better ! High end performance with Contis is great > 200 km/h ! Torque at low revs is fine with Lafranconis and gets worth with Contis, but is still o.k.. It runs well with both set ups, the engine always feels good and always delivers performance. Even in town it is good to drive.
May be you just need to find the perfect set up of the 40mm Del'Lortos - then you would not think about changing to the 32 mm carbs.
In 1979 the main german motorcycle newspaper "Motorrad" claimed the 40mm carbs would be better than the 32mm carbs in any manner !
See/listen my Darmah after 13 years of rest - 40 mm carbs fitted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1hIWFWHnlo
Have fun
Joe
You are in doubt ?......ask a Kraut ;-)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
Late SD's had the polished rods, for instance the '83 blue-paint-with-silver-stripes SD that I rebuilt a few years ago. It came that way too - a friend bought it new and I cut the lead seal between the case halves. Late SD's had 78-on style SS engines with electric start and smaller carbs. The deeper SD-specific cost cutting stuff was changed to SS-spec over the Darmah's production run. This must've been done to simplify manufacture of different models using the same basic powerplant.Martin Mille / SSD wrote:True the SD engine is much the same base engine , but the SD never had the polished Rod's that all SS had from the beginning , and apart from the weight and length of the bike that is about where the similarities stop
Otherwise, I agree - for instance the SS frame works better than the Darmah's frame. The same is true for a 750 GT. SS or 750 GT frame designs with lugged engine mounts steer in a more refined way than the stamped frames that started with the 860GT.
My 80 SD has 40 mm PHM carbs with "flush pins" (how is this called in English ? - in German we call it "Tupfer").
How long should it usually take to press this "Tupfer" until the fuel spills over ? Right now it works instantly - before adjusting the float it last 4-5 seconds.
Cheers
Joe
How long should it usually take to press this "Tupfer" until the fuel spills over ? Right now it works instantly - before adjusting the float it last 4-5 seconds.
Cheers
Joe
You are in doubt ?......ask a Kraut ;-)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
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ups.....Australia is awake
I did push the tickers a few times too back then, but it should not make a difference, since you just open the float valve. It might even enhance the wear on the floats plastic surface
I will get a workshop manual especially for Dell' Ortos (in German) soon. Hopefully I will find every information I can think of.....
Cheers
Joe
I did push the tickers a few times too back then, but it should not make a difference, since you just open the float valve. It might even enhance the wear on the floats plastic surface
I will get a workshop manual especially for Dell' Ortos (in German) soon. Hopefully I will find every information I can think of.....
Cheers
Joe
You are in doubt ?......ask a Kraut ;-)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
Cheers from Germany
(Ducati 900 SD, Suzuki GSX-R 1000 K6, Suzuki GSX 1200 Inazuma)
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From the Workshop manual , and its pretty much what I do
Page 49.
Starting
To start from cold, the (d) flooding-plunger should
be pressed five or six times, lightly opening the throttle
I extremely cold conditions, it is advisable to open the
throttle once or twice, so that the accelerator pump can
squirt extra fuel into the inlet, making starting easier.
Page 49.
Starting
To start from cold, the (d) flooding-plunger should
be pressed five or six times, lightly opening the throttle
I extremely cold conditions, it is advisable to open the
throttle once or twice, so that the accelerator pump can
squirt extra fuel into the inlet, making starting easier.
The float position can easily be adjusted to either slow or accelerate the flooding process. All that is required is to bend the metal tab on the float. Moving it down slightly opens the float bowl inlet valve more quickly, thus reducing the time required for the bowl to overflow through the plunger. Bending it up reverses the proceess.
I just did this last weekend since my bike's front carb refused to overflow, causing the bike to only run on one cylinder at start-up.
The Dellorto manual in English is widely available on the web.
Bruce
I just did this last weekend since my bike's front carb refused to overflow, causing the bike to only run on one cylinder at start-up.
The Dellorto manual in English is widely available on the web.
Bruce
1979 900SS
Fredericton, NB
Canada
Fredericton, NB
Canada