Oil filter assembly 860

[bobnorton]

Just checked my oil filter, clean,new and dry. replaced by the previous owner , an internationally well known bike builder. There is no plate under the filter and no sealing at the bolt. Bit lost for words. Is the plate availiable anywhere ?, whats the norm on the bolt?.

[bobnorton]

The parts list does not give size for this washer/support , I'm going to make one , need to know how thick (as it loads up on the filter) and the hole size ,is it tight on the shaft/pin?.Maybee some kind soul can measure theirs?. I have a steel washer 0.097 " thick, may be of use

[Craig in France]

Hi Bob,

Bolt first
IIRC, the washer is aluminium. But you could easily use a copper, felt or rubber one - even steel. It don’t do much - the real seal is the one on the top of the filter.

The washer
The story here - as much as I can remember - is that there was a time when the genuine filter wasn’t available/ was expensive. So the ‘fix’ was to use one off a 250 Kwacker. But the Kwacker one being a tad taller, the washer got taken out.

Hopefully someone has one they can go measure for you (mine is where it should be … .) Otherwise, simply try experimenting with different lifts until you get the cover to bed down nicely against the seal on the top of the filter - it doesn't need to squeeze down, just bed down. As for the washer itself, it's a loose fit on the stem.

HTH

Craig

[bobnorton]

Without a base washer and a filter thats loose on the post I can't see why the oil would bother to go through the filter, unless the Kawa filters were tight on the post?, I presume the oil comes up from the bottom of the housing ,fills the space around the filter and travels through to the post. Not much goes thro the filter at the moment, the bike was shown to me running and the filter stayed dry!!.Trying to get as much old oil out as possible, any tricks? Looks like plenty stays in the gearbox area, stand the bike on its nose? !.

[Craig in France]

It's widely recognised that the filter doesn't do much, Bob. That said, I'd be a bit concerned that no oil was coming into the housing. It does take a while, mind .. How long was the bike running?

Here's the circulation sytem, btw.

[bobnorton]

Thats a bit odd, my filter is on the other side of the motor!!.

[BevHevSteve]

Thats a bit odd, my filter is on the other side of the motor!!.

[BevHevSteve]

Without a base washer and a filter thats loose on the post I can't see why the oil would bother to go through the filter, unless the Kawa filters were tight on the post?, I presume the oil comes up from the bottom of the housing ,fills the space around the filter and travels through to the post. Not much goes thro the filter at the moment, the bike was shown to me running and the filter stayed dry!!.Trying to get as much old oil out as possible, any tricks? Looks like plenty stays in the gearbox area, stand the bike on its nose? !.

Well yes, as a matter of fact, the kwacker filters do seal the post and they are a bit taller then the originals, so that large washer needed to be removed. If you washer is MIA you can make something to suit it isn;t rocket science. It just needs to slip over the post and the OD needs to be a larger dia than the rubber seal on the bottom of the original filter. It is thinner than what you would expect but just needs to be stout enough to not bend/distort when you tighten things up.

I am going to be getting some of these washers that also have a rare earth magnet on them pretty soon. Pretty slick setup and I think will sell very well. If you are interested send over an email to me with OIL FILTER WASHER/MAGNET THING in the subject line and I will email you once I have them here. No I have not worked out pricing yet, I will let you know once I have them and all costs to me are known.

[Craig in France]

Thats a bit odd, my filter is on the other side of the motor!!.

. Nah, your FILTER's on the side shown ... but I'll bet a 'Pound to a Penny' that the stone catcher in the sump doesn't feed in from the side shown .

(The draughtsman was obviously having a bad day, that day ... Btw, the error goes all the way back to the 750 handbook of 1975 (at least) .

[bobnorton]

HI Steve, What would be good would be to have a magnet in the sump to protect the pump .Not easy .Nortons have one in the hexagon of the strainer .I will get one and drill and tap the hex for it.Let you know how i get on.

[BevHevSteve]

If you search "magnet" in my store you will find I already have dipsticks with rare earth magnets as well as case plugs...

[bobnorton]

Too late Steve, got them already.Does filtered oil go to the big end or just back to the sump?.

[wdietz186]

Bob,The system is a partial flow/bypass type. In the pipe that feeds the cylinders that is cast into the RH case there is an extra orifice that bleeds into the filter housing. The oil is pumped into the housing and goes through the filter[outside in] and drains back to the sump.The feed to the crank is a drilling behind the pump that goes across the cases,into the primary cover,and feeds the end of the crank through a drilling at the bearing in the cover. So the short answer is No to direct filtered oil to the crank.

[bobnorton]

With the amount of crap in the sump it all seems pointless , filter it and dump it back with the rubbish, pick it up and send it to the big end.There is still a bit of a mystery , how is it that brit singles can run on unfiltered dirty oil for 40 or more years and not run a big end, but Ducs are so vulnerable? poorer steels?, I think that is the problem, Duc gear hardening is suspect so why would the crankpins be any better.

[wdietz186]

Now you know the reasoning behind the 1000mi. oil change interval. Change it before too much stuff accumulates.