Hi all.
Working to get my 860 running after years of sitting in the garage. Biggest issue, and what led it to sitting, was (and maybe still is) shifting issues.
Many years ago, but with very few miles since then, I replaced the clutch basket, clutch plates, and springs. Shortly after, the selector box jammed up. I tried to fix it, but eventually had it rebuilt / shimmed by Desmoto sport in SF and it sat on the shelf for years.
Fast forward to now - installed new extended shifter arm and cable that i bought from Steve, and that seems to be ok and definitely makes the pull easier. I pulled apart the clutch, and freed everything up. Replaced small bits of ball / rod assembly, cleaned and lubed. But i'm still having some issues...
1 - The rod adjuster screw needs to be really far in to actuate clutch - flush with the pressure plate. Pulled all rod bits out last night, checked and re-installed. Only thing i didn't check was length of longer pieces, but will do if needed. Quite possible that I don't get how the various adjustment points of cable play into this as well...
2 - Unless adjuster screw is all the way in, the pressure plate does not pop out evenly - seems like one side "leads". I can't see anything that would cause this, but maybe i'm missing something?
3 - I don't quite understand the relationship between the arm with the "peg" on the crossover shaft, and the arm with the "c" on the selector box. It seems like i have it all installed correctly, will engage 1st (not under power, bike not running), then when i try to get into second, the peg pops out of the c. I am assuming that there is some magical orientation that the two arms need to be at, but trial and error is getting me nowhere fast. Bike does seem to run through the gears fine with a wrench, when selector box not installed.
4 - What function does the screw / locknut on the side of the selector box serve? How should it be adjusted?
If anyone has some thoughts on how to address this stuff, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom[/img]
75 860 GT - clutch / shift refresh issues
The pressure plate on my 79 darmah is crooked when pulled just like you describe. The clutch on that bike has always been a problem. I cant get it to stop slipping under power. The clutch on my 78 Darmah is perfect. The lever pull feels hydrolic and it wont slip if you try...
79 Darmah
78 900 GTS
86 F1B
80 SSD
02 Harley FXD
72 H2 750 triple
08 KTM 300XC
there has yet to be a motorcycle line made that is as satisfying to ride, hear and look at as the ducati bevels
78 900 GTS
86 F1B
80 SSD
02 Harley FXD
72 H2 750 triple
08 KTM 300XC
there has yet to be a motorcycle line made that is as satisfying to ride, hear and look at as the ducati bevels
-
BevHevSteve
- SITE OWNER
- Posts: 2326
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 8:53 pm
- Location: Lafayette, California
- Contact:
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
-
Steve Foster
- Parallel Twin
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:43 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia.
Hi Tom
This is how I adjust it on my 750 GT.
Put the bike on the centrestand and put it in gear. Loosen the lock nut. As the screw is turned I can see the gear lever rise and fall slightly. It will do this once per complete revolution of the screw. The idea is to turn the screw to the position where the gear lever is in the middle of the extremes of its travel and then lock it there.
The principle is the same for the 860. However, because the gear lever is on the opposite side to the selector I imagine that it could be difficult to observe the movement of the gear lever while turning the screw.
I wouldn't mess with it if there isn't a problem with the lever centering between upshifts and downshifts but if you decide to experiment then note the position of the screw before rotating it so that you can put it back the way it was.
Hope that helps,
Steve.
On the inside of the selector box there is an eccentric cam (on the opposite end of the screw/locknut shaft) that adjusts the position of the selector fork so that it can be centred for upshifts and downshifts. It's a bit difficult to describe how this works but if you pull the selector box apart and look carefully you can see what it does. Anyway, you don't need to understand how it works in order to adjust it. Note that the screw doesn't go in or out as it is turned (like a mixture screw for example) - the adjustment is simply getting it in the correct orientation. Hence 1 full turn is the same as 2 full turns; 0.5 turn is the same as 1.5 turns, etc.4 - What function does the screw / locknut on the side of the selector box serve? How should it be adjusted?
This is how I adjust it on my 750 GT.
Put the bike on the centrestand and put it in gear. Loosen the lock nut. As the screw is turned I can see the gear lever rise and fall slightly. It will do this once per complete revolution of the screw. The idea is to turn the screw to the position where the gear lever is in the middle of the extremes of its travel and then lock it there.
The principle is the same for the 860. However, because the gear lever is on the opposite side to the selector I imagine that it could be difficult to observe the movement of the gear lever while turning the screw.
I wouldn't mess with it if there isn't a problem with the lever centering between upshifts and downshifts but if you decide to experiment then note the position of the screw before rotating it so that you can put it back the way it was.
Hope that helps,
Steve.
1974 Ducati 750 GT
Thanks for the input, been away for a few days so haven't looked at it.
Sorta understanding everything now, but, maybe i'm missing something (conceptually or a part). Seems that the shifter / crossover shaft rotates too far, and the "pin" pops out of the "c" on the selector box arm. I have some exploded parts diagrams, so i will verify that i have all the parts there, but maybe there is a way to set a limit on the shifter / crossover shaft?
I'll try to take some pics as well, but that might be challenging since its all on the inside...
Sorta understanding everything now, but, maybe i'm missing something (conceptually or a part). Seems that the shifter / crossover shaft rotates too far, and the "pin" pops out of the "c" on the selector box arm. I have some exploded parts diagrams, so i will verify that i have all the parts there, but maybe there is a way to set a limit on the shifter / crossover shaft?
I'll try to take some pics as well, but that might be challenging since its all on the inside...