Darmah Engine Overhaul

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 2:43 am

I do have the brakes on the right side and the gear selection on the left(I thought that all the bikes are like this except the ones from india and england)
where do I find this crossover shaft?
should I take off the oil pump before I split the case? some articles say yes other don't.

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:03 am

Crossover shaft in area of sprocket, Dont think pump has to come off .

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:03 am

Crossover shaft in area of sprocket, Dont think pump has to come off .

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:04 am

Crossover shaft in area of sprocket, Dont think pump has to come off .

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:05 am

Crossover shaft in area of sprocket, Dont think pump has to come off .

Jon Pegler · Post by **Jon Pegler** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:33 am

There shouldn't be a crossover shaft on a Darmah motor.
Unlike the earlier 860 motors, the gear selector mechanism was revised on the Darmah and is fitted behind the clutch.

Jon

wdietz186 · Post by **wdietz186** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:59 pm

You do have the casebolt/stud that anchors the side stand removed don't you? Tapping the shafts while pulling the cases apart and holding the kickstart lever at 90deg. should do it. EDIT reviewing your pics I see that you have a reg. allen bolt on your eng. it's the one with the spacer above the sump drain. It is possible that one of the shafts are sticking in a bearing,careful massage with a hammer may be needed.

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:25 pm

Ill try using my hammer a bit.
and wdietz I removed this bolt also. Ill take some pictures later today and post them so Ill be sure that everything is removed.

now I feel that the cases hold together in the rear(where the sprocket) side of the motor. anyhting there?

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:00 am

Better to stop and do some research ,read up and check ,if in doubt no harm will come from doing nothing.Sounds like selector or change mechanism hanging up.

ducadini · Post by **ducadini** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:46 am

I think You forgot to remove the little cam that sits on the gearselectordrum, just above and after the outshaft. Gives neutral signal.
The selector drum has the springloaded bal-end to set gears in a given position in the left case and this could account for the cases just opening a few mm.
If that isn't the case, just rotate the kickstarter a bit more.
I know, You could use a third hand to perform this and remember to tell her this springs is going to rotate the kick further, since the stop is in the lefthandcase and this is now NOT holding the spring any more.
Yes, confusing isn't it.
cu
joseph

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:56 am

yey, some progress.
there is the little bastard that didn't let me to part the cases. (thanks ducadini, if anyone told me about this before I probably didn't understand

)

anyway took it off(who puts such a screw in a really unreachable place?!)
the cases parted to about an inch and once again stuck

, any ideas what can be holding them now?

and one more thing, what the hell is this?

it is made of plastic and it fell out of the cases as soon as I parted them, is it something that should be inside? (I'm asking this because I already found something that shouldn't be there, a piece of epoxy)

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:07 am

one more thing, I noticed that the conrods have a lot of freedom sideways (I guess it is not ok) the repair of the crankshaft in Israel could cost quite a lot, I wonder if this crank will fit my darmah :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-DUC ... 500wt_1108

does anyone know if it fits?

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:12 am

Looks like part of a plastic gland seal for the alternator cable where it passes thro the case,these can easily break if tightened much.I think the normal method is to have the motor lying on its right side and lift off the left trying to leave the gubbins in the right side??.Bit awkward to turn the kicker.If the big ends ok you will need new rod shims/thrusts to take out the side play. These do wear and cause a knock i understand, I think they normally come with the rod and B/E kit but It may be possible to get some made?.

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:16 am

on the right side you say, ill try that. for some reason it is written here : http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/squareca ... 3-pg1.html to do it the other way around, weired.

and another thing, I should hold the kickstart untill I part the cases completely or I can leave it alone already (I do have 1-2) inches opening

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:32 am

Ive been reading a different book!!.I'm not an expert! some here are ---speak -up !!.Any S/H crank is likely to need a recon ,cant see it would help unless its local and nearly free.Why did you strip the motor?. Oh I see knocking.Before the crank is split measure sideplay on b/end?.Crank rebuild is by ducati bevel specialist normally ,someone like Brancato in uk.If b/e ok on mine i may get shims made and a mate to rebuild ,cheap but risky!.