Darmah Engine Overhaul

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:23 am

rwhc80
ohm didn't understand you.
I will definitely do that. however i still have this feeling that i will be left with a bucket full of bolts and gears and no idea what to do with it

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:02 am

Dont worry Hashashan, one of us will be happy to take your bucket of bolts for a few £££ !!.

rwhc80 · Post by **rwhc80** » Thu Nov 25, 2010 3:44 pm

Damn it Bob, You got in first !!! ....... Maybe we could go halves, although freight to OZ is a bit costly ????
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Don't worry Hashashan, the great thing about Duc ownership is the endless access to reference material >

Cheers
Rick

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 2:09 pm

well got the front head off.
how do I take the piston off? the circlip just wont go out ... is there a secret how to do that?

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:09 am

well never mind, took it off

another question though .... can I take off the clutch basket without the clutch stopping tool? I could use an impact

wdietz186 · Post by **wdietz186** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:57 am

Yes, You can use an impact to remove but I highly suggest using a holding tool to reinstall so you get the torque right. The same holds true for the alt. rotor.

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:54 pm

the engine vandalism continues...
took off both the heads now, by the way both the pistons look fine to the naked eye, id say the seem to be in sharp condition I don't know why the engine oil smelt like fuel...

took off the clutch plates and there you go, I think that the teeth on the plates seems a bit pointy .. am I right? it also seems that there are some groves on the housing, do I need to replace the housing and the plates?

rwhc80 · Post by **rwhc80** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 3:48 pm

Hashashan,
From your photo it looks like the inner clutch drum is quite badly notched from the clutch plates. ( It's very common by the way ) But if your going to the trouble of a re-build, then I would source a new, or good 2nd hand inner drum and a new clutch pack.
As the notches get worse, the plates get stuck when trying to engage the clutch and becomes a pain to use.
I have been told that people have filed some of the notches out, but I think that would only be a temporary fix ,as the plate then has even more room to travel, and would hasten the same problem.
Never tried it myself, but maybe one of the others has ????

Cheers
Rick

Bern · Post by **Bern** » Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:39 am

hashashan wrote:the engine vandalism continues...
took off both the heads now, by the way both the pistons look fine to the naked eye, id say the seem to be in sharp condition I don't know why the engine oil smelt like fuel...

Check your float valve needles and the float levels you could be running rich.
I haven't had direct experience with this but I was also told to ensure I turned the fuel off when parked since it was possible for fuel to drain into the oil sump in particular through the Horizontal cyclinder. If you look at the angle of the front carb if the float needle wasn't closing fully gas could keep draining through it into the engine.

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:10 am

went on vacation and got me some 36mm carbies

now im back to the duke ... took off the clutch basket quite easily, holding it with a screwdriver.

took off the electric ignition stator ... and when i got to the flywheel i encountered a problem ... it just wont go off, no matter what I do.
any suggestions?

DaleMclean · Post by **DaleMclean** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:18 am

Its a tapered shaft, a swift "tap" with a wooden mallet on one side will usually pop it off

hashashan · Post by **hashashan** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:28 am

on what side are you talking about? I tried hitting it on every possible location.
should I hit it hard? im afraid to damage it

ducadini · Post by **ducadini** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:00 pm

Tapping (understatement) it means putting some akward forces (effectively bending the crank) on the bearing that takes all the driving forces (the rightside) so it could backfire a few (hundred?thousand?) miles further.
Taking the rightside crankcase off isn't an really option, as then you are putting the force on the leftside bearing , not designed to take this and could pop out, and wacking your flywheel against the case.

There is a special puller (sort of a basket) that clamps just the primary gear, try to source it for use. Then wack it :-)
cu
ducadini

johnnyb · Post by **johnnyb** » Wed Dec 15, 2010 3:43 am

hashashan wrote:on what side are you talking about? I tried hitting it on every possible location.
should I hit it hard? im afraid to damage it

Hello Hashashan

I asked a "bevel" mechanic how to remove the fly wheel and he advised to give the fly wheel a sharp hit on the face towards the edge to pop it off the tapper. When I questioned him regarding the ducati puller he said he always uses this technique.

Since I have removed the fly wheel on the Darmah several times using this method.

I understand we should use the proper tools however works for me and the mechanic who does Bevels all day every day.

Strike at your own risk

good luck.

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:08 am

I have also used this method,however i understand that blows can affect the magnetic forces and may reduce efficiency of the alternator.