Can anyone tell me what the correct way of adjusting the the screw on the clutch plate cover on the basket ? you know the one that has the 13mm lock nut locking the pin that goes through the pressure plate
I'm assuming that if you screw the pin out you would get more bite on the plates , is this correct ?
Cheers
Clutch Ajustment
If its the same as a single you undo the locknut screw the centre pin in untill it makes light contact ,unscrew half a turn and lock the nut. No force needed. this just allows a little free play to avoid wearing out the lift mechanism.The clutch itself is not adjustable,all is predetermined by plate thickness and numbers,plate flatness and spring condition, springs are not adjustable in the accepted sense although it is possible to insert small washers to increase individual spring load to cure wobble.
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read the link above on how to find out how to correctly adjust this, it is critical
"For a happy clutch, it is important to remove all these items, clean and smooth with a scotchbrite, grease and reinstall. The adjustment should leave about 1+mm between the actuator arm and the sprocket cover when set up right. The clutch cable should be routed with large arcs so it won;t bind and 3-4mm freeplay at the hand lever. "
read the link above on how to find out how to correctly adjust this, it is critical
"For a happy clutch, it is important to remove all these items, clean and smooth with a scotchbrite, grease and reinstall. The adjustment should leave about 1+mm between the actuator arm and the sprocket cover when set up right. The clutch cable should be routed with large arcs so it won;t bind and 3-4mm freeplay at the hand lever. "
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
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Martin, Read and heed it makes all the difference in the world.As for the flare/slip have a good look at the splines on the clutch drum and the slots in the basket.If worn or notched it can delay full engagement of the plates.Careful work with a file can smooth the buggery to a large extent.Just reduce the sharp edges along the splines.
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I took the side cover off yesterday and removed the plates , the 1st thing I noticed that several were stuck together when I removed them there was wear on them , I had a new set and these were installed , there was no sign of wear on the drum at all so that was good , but there was signs of grooves on the center part, I took a look at some other ones I had and they all look the same. I have not gone for a ride yet but did notice that the clutch leaver was now a lot harder to pull in.
Martin,Readjust the clutch release pushrod as per the Bevelheaven article.The new plates are likely thicker than the old ones and the leverage point on the release arm has changed some.Another thought on the flair/delayed engagement,If the rod and balls that make up the release mechanism are sticking from dried up old grease and dirt it can cause both high effort and slow engagement. Stepped wear on the bullet that contacts the release arm can also muck things up.
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YES [read my article noted above]Ghostdog wrote:How do I get all the rods and ball bearings out of the assembly?? Should I just pull the adjusting rod and push all the parts through (and out the clutch lever side?)
Push from the clutch basket side out the sprocket side. Do it the opposite then you get to remove your clutch basket to fish out all the bits that will fall down inside.
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com