860 GT stuck clutch rod.

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Cragar
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860 GT stuck clutch rod.

Post by Cragar » Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:07 pm

Has anyone ever encountered a seized clutch rod?
If so how did you free it up, I've got one that's in there good and I don't want to just beat the hell out of it, any suggestions are welcome.

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Post by wdietz186 » Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:24 pm

It is actually a collection of rods and balls.Pull the pressure plate and try soaking what you can access with a good penetrant.You will need a 4mm or so punch to knock the rods out from the clutch side as the diameter is stepped inside the shaft and going the other way will jam things up worse.

Cragar
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Clutch shaft

Post by Cragar » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:48 pm

I understood that there were a series of rods and such and I have been able to remove a few pieces through the sprocket side. but I didn't know the other part about the stepping up. So just to be clear, I should only be trying to move them from the clutch side to remove them out of the sprocket side?

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Re: 860 GT stuck clutch rod.

Post by nottonight68 » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:54 pm

Cragar wrote:Has anyone ever encountered a seized clutch rod?
If so how did you free it up, I've got one that's in there good and I don't want to just beat the hell out of it, any suggestions are welcome.
Not being obtuse , it sounds like you need to invest in a workshop manual--all will be revealed
so much time--so little to say

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Post by Cragar » Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:14 am

I'm sorry for my snappy reply, I will do some more research.
Last edited by Cragar on Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by nottonight68 » Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:24 am

[edited by site admin] ....search this site and look at the 860 workshop manual--go to page RM--it should help you solve your problem [...]
so much time--so little to say

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Post by BevHevSteve » Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:34 am

Cragar, you need to have another look at the manual as nottonight68 politely suggested as there is an exploded view of those rods and balls for you to see what is going on. Also, in the general engine section of this forum we have it all spelled out with drawings and dimensions for you as well.

Have a look here http://www.bevelheaven.com/~BB/phpBB2/v ... c.php?t=92
Last edited by BevHevSteve on Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:15 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by ducadini » Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:46 am

Well, there seem to people who, when something doesn't go the way they expect it, tend to blame everyone and everything else. Most of the time they should step away from the job and think it over.
Remember that, when working or maintaining bevels, ALWAYS STAY CALM.
When Your manual doesn't cover the clutchrod assembly, THROW IT AWAY.
I have (or have read) most bevel manuals (english/italian/french/dutch/german/factory/non-factory) and each one covered this subject albeit not always as it should be.
Seems I missed a manual that doesn't :oops: , my fault.
I admit You DO have to search for it sometimes.
Most (if not ALL) manuals on Steve's site are factory and cover it, dismantling and building up.
If working on Ducati bevels tends to get Your bloodpressure up and sense of humour down, everyone in the neighbourhood run away , then You can be sure it won't last too long : Your patience and Your engine.
Not too good for the guys who really enjoy working on bevels, 'cause everyone will start thinking they are "weird" working on engines that tend to hide unsolvable mysteries.
You can be SURE there are MUCH MORE strange things to pop up when working on bevels :shock:
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Post by BevHevSteve » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:16 am

OK now back to your regularly scheduled programming.......... Nothin to see here folks 8)
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Post by Cragar » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:01 am

Just as I had suspected earlier in this thread the problem with my 860 engine was not a common one that could simply be solved by looking at diagrams or reading my manual. My clutch rod was seized, and seized good. I determined through lengthy conversation on the matter that my clutch rod had friction welded it's self in to place by being used without propper lubrication and it was probably the cause of this 860's retirement.
So..... I was left with two options, split the cases and replace the shaft or drill it out. I decided to drill it out using a carbide tipped drill bit specially designed for drilling hardened steel. It worked beautifully and now I will be able to re asemble my engine. To everyone that has been a part of this thread I am sorry for my penis comment but in my defense it's wrong to assume that someone on this forum isn't doing all the research outside of the forum that they possibly can. That is how I ended up here. I was simply trying to find someone who had encountered the same problem so I could pick their brain a little on how it was resolved. I did not loose my patience with my project, I just lost my patience with what seemed to me, a snobby reply. Sorry

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Post by BevHevSteve » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:08 am

Don't worry about it - I am glad you resolved your delima and you are right, I have seen galling of these things, but never completely cold welded together! How odd! What a relief it must have been to get that successfully drilled out.

Lesson learned for us all is tho make sure - as I always say too - whenever you replace your cable, also remove these rods and balls, check clean and lubricate.... Now we know what can happen worst case!
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Post by Cragar » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:54 am

The good news is that because of it's early retirement I now have a very low miles 860 engine that is otherwise in good working order.

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Post by wdietz186 » Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:41 pm

Well at least until the ign. takes a dump. Gap your plugs at .020" to reduce the voltage requirements and prolong its life.Be mindful of the valve guides too,they had some soft ones on the earlier engines.

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Post by Vince » Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:36 pm

I have heard of these clutch rods welding themselves together on the end,even to the balls on dino runs if you pull the clutch in at redline in 4 th gear and hold it in as they slow down,big heat and presure but welding on the sides in the shalf is a new one on me

Cragar
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Post by Cragar » Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:00 am

Already ditched the ignition, had a new one built by Syds and it should do the trick nicely, at least it better $$$.
I know it's a rare thing but what can I say? That rod was in there SOLID.
At least it's gone now.

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