Millers Oil

[sennas4]

Hello

I've been in contact with millers oil

http://www.millersoils.net/

They recommend me Pistoneeze 50 for my '76 GTS. Anybody used it before ?

Any input is much appreciated.

Kind regards

Yannick

[Peter Mille]

I, for myself, would not use a single grade oil in a beveltwin, when your Duc is in good condition, there's no need for a so called "classic" oil.
Just use any modern multigrade (synthetic) motorcycle oil with the right specifications and weight.
For example, I use synthetic Castrol RS 4T 10W50 in my Duc Mille, works fine.
I used to use Castrol RS 10W60 before, worked fine also!
I do use a Millers product:VSP lead replacement though!

[Geoff]

But doesn't the Mille have plain big-ends and the 76 GTS needle roller????

[Geoff]

But doesn't the Mille have plain big-ends and the 76 GTS needle roller????

[Peter Mille]

Yes, meaning the Mille engine is even more sensitive for oil quality!!

[Geoff]

I beg to differ Peter; with the plain bearings comes a 'proper' filtration and pressurised oil system that is absent on the GTS and early bevels - one of the big advantages of the Mille bottom end over earlier bevels.

[Peter Mille]

Well, the filtration is done by a by pass oil filter!
And the plain big end needs a 8X higher oilpressure than the needle roller big end!

[Geoff]

Fair doos mate; I'd still rather have a plain big end + high pressure (and 20w-50) than the needle rollers in my 76 SS!
Cheers
Geoff

[seddy]

Doesnt A synthetic cause the wet clutches to slip?

[Peter Mille]

Not if it's a specific motorcycle synthetic oil!

[Nik_NZ]

Many modern synthetic oils have 'friction modifiers' that can cause wet clutches to slip but more importantly can also cause the roller bearings in big ends to skid. Some manufactures produce synthetis oils for motorcycles that don't have these 'friction modifiers' which is generally safe to use. I prefer to use a modern mineral oil in older engines or maybe a synthetically enhanced mineral oil (semi-synthetic).

Oil technology has come a long way, even mineral oils are now far better than they were years ago. It is rather pointless using old mono-grade oils in old engines when much better multi-grade oils are available. Multi-grade oils can maintain their viscosity and shear characteristics over a much wider temperature range than mono-grade oils and this is especially important in air cooled engines.

The most important thing to do is change the oil and filter regularly, probably at shorter intervals than the manufacturers specify. This way you will have cleaner oil in the engine. Expensive synthetic oils don't break down as fast as mineral oils allowing you to change the oil less often but as I prefer to change it every 2-3 thousand miles then using a synthetic oil is just a costly overkill.

Just my 2 cents worth

[Colin Linz]

I don’t know about “Classic Oils”, but there is nothing wrong with a good mono grade oil, or even the older SG rated oils.

Mono grade oils maintain their rated viscosity for longer than multi grade oils. A multigrade can loose half their viscosity in only 1500 – 2000klm. This is because unlike cars, our oil runs through the gearbox. This places great shearing loads on the molecular structure of the oil, and will cause them to loose viscosity faster. Mono grade oils are more tolerant of this.

The older SG rated oils do not necessarily mean they are not as good. Oils are designed for specific technological engine applications. SG oils can have quite high levels of zinc and phosphorous. These are very good anti wear additives, and are needed when considering the demands that are placed on the oil by our gearboxes; however they are not friendly to Catalytic Converters. Modern oils have had these removed and replaced with others that are friendlier to the Catalytic Converters. This is why even many modern Motorcycle oils are still only SG rated.

[Peter Mille]

A good ( synthetic) specific motorcycle multigrade oil is designed to maintain it's viscosity for many thousands of miles/km's, won't harm the clutch, nor will it allow to slip, will lubricate the gearbox very well and will outlast any oldfashioned single grade in every aspect.
Do a search on this, or look at:
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... c_oil.html

[Colin Linz]

Synthetic oils are very good, and many do maintain their viscosity better than mineral based oils. The best result I know of in testing was Mobile 1 (car version). In tests in motorcycles it maintained 83% of its viscosity after 2400klm. Compared with Castrol Syntec at 74.5%, and Castrol GTX at 68%, all the other oils were a little lower. Unfortunately I have been unable to find any tests with mono grades, just statements that they are more stable in relation to viscosity change than multi grade oils

Given that my old GTS needs oil changes about every 2000klm and takes 5 litres at a time I choose just a good quality mono grade mineral based oil. The $40 difference in price every couple of thousand kilometres will more than offset any differences in wear rate. The likes of Ian Faloon, who still recommends a mono grade 50 weight oil changed regularly, plus my experience using both and talking to some factory technicians lead me to the choice I made.

In the end I’m sure the synthetic oil won’t hurt anything, and could have a marginally better rate of wear. If you feel more confident from using it then that could be justification enough.