Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

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RCASSIN
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Re: Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

Post by RCASSIN » Sun Apr 17, 2016 8:52 am

Hi Guys. i am trying to remove the entire clutch/housing. The main nut, I am having a problem removing. Obviously, the housing is moving. Do I need a special tool for this? Or is there any tricks to remove? Thanks, Rob

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Craig in France
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Re: Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

Post by Craig in France » Mon Apr 18, 2016 3:27 am

RCASSIN wrote:Do I need a special tool for this? Or is there any tricks to remove?
Yes, Rob. You MUST use a clutch locker. Beg, borrow or buy one 8) . Various models available, including this one from Steve:

https://store.bevelheaven.com/Engine-Re ... el-single/

Gas Mark 5
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Re: Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

Post by Gas Mark 5 » Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:14 am

Gas Mark 5 wrote:
Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:20 am
Fingers crossed I'll be on the road again in time for the summer. ;)
Er... I didn't say which summer did I? :oops:

Still alive, just life and work getting in the way of more important things. Anyway, I still have boxes of condor bits under the bed which I dug out again the other day, looking again at getting it all back together. I remember when taking it apart the LHS main crank bearing dropped out very easily (unlike the RHS which put up a fight). Trying the replacement bearing in the case, I can almost fit it fully in just by hand. Is this an issue? There is a circlip there, but I feel the bearing outer should still be a good interference fit with the crankcase. Any suggestions if this is so?

I don't think I can get a thin enough shim in there. I could sleeve it, but not sure how to machine the crankcase, can't really mount the whole thing in a lathe! Some people have recommended loctite but others say it doesn't work and I'm not sure I would trust it.

Any ideas?

Edit: Wretched photobucket ruining everything. I'll fix the images when I have a new host sorted out...

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Craig in France
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Re: Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

Post by Craig in France » Sun Mar 04, 2018 3:40 am

Gas Mark 5 wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:14 am
I remember when taking it apart the LHS main crank bearing dropped out very easily. Trying the replacement bearing in the case, I can almost fit it fully in just by hand. Is this an issue?
It's not great. It's generally considered better to NOT have a bearing spinning in the case ... ;) .*

Tight, but not interference, is the fit you want. Chilling the bearing in the freezer for a coupla hours and warming the case in the oven gives you the right kind of fit.

In your case (no pun intended), simply use a bearing retainer. I don't know what you may have read; but properly used, they should work ok. Obviously chose one that resists oil and can stand a bit of heat.

Otherwise, as you say, you're looking at sleeving the case. And, unless you have a friendly machine shop just down the road, you don't want to go down that route.

Others, of course, may give you different advice ... :)

HTH

Craig

* Not that it will necessarily have any dramatic consequence, especially if there's a bit of oil flowing around. For example, I can remember that some Hondas used to run their camshafts directly in the head castings - no bearing, not even a bush, nuttin ...

Gas Mark 5
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Re: Condor bevel drive 350 rebuild

Post by Gas Mark 5 » Sun Mar 04, 2018 2:15 pm

Thanks Craig, that's great to hear. There's so much conflicting information on the internet, it's hard to know what to trust sometimes. Loctite it is then, something like 638 seems to fit the bill, 'High strength, high temperature, oil resistant retaining compound'. Machining it looks like much more hassle than I fancy right now, hopefully the new bearings will last another 40 years before I need to touch them again :-D

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