250 Scrambler back from the dead

[sam]

Here are a few pics of a rebuild that I finished in April, the bike came from Aberdeen which had lay dismantled in a leaking shed for 35yrs. (sorry turned out a lot!)



First thing to do was seperate the narrow case bits from the wide case there was too much missing from the narrow case so that was sold off on fleabay.
The alloy was white and chrome was peeling chassis was also in a sorry state so off to the blaster and powders coaters for the chassis chrome was stripped and re-plated and elbow grease and an old high school polishing machine for the alloy.

Before and after














Crank was sent off the Carlo Leoncini to be rebuilt lightened and balanced in jig time ,turn around from Scotland to Italy and back in just over a week.





The motor was blasted first using ally oxide then bead blasted with glass beads before replacing bearings and seals.







The side stand had rotted away so fabricated a new one.



Chassis and other parts back from the powder coaters,





Electronic ignition and 12v generator fitted and wired.





The tank hade a few dings so they were removed and repainted.











Time consuming bits next joining all the dots then fabricate a silencer.









I have fitted stainless mud guards and kept them longer that the original which also involved making a new stay.









Almost ready for the mot better see if it fires up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Blw2bj2vrk0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PsDRUL ... e=youtu.be



1500 happy smiles so far full rebuild here http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/forum/sho ... -scrambler



All the best Sam.

[BevHevSteve]

Thanks for posting this...

[tobaccoblender]

My compliments- what a beautiful job you've done. I'm very envious of your shop- it looks very well equipped.
Out of interest, where is the brewery? And is the mash tun in the same room as the conditioning vessels?

[sam]

The brewery is on the mezzanine I built but in its own room.The conditioning vessel is in the same room, I only do one brew at a time as it is for my own and neighbours consumption the vessels are also temprature controlled.

[tobaccoblender]

Wow, it looks like a lovely setup. So are you saying it's not for commerce, just for you and friends? If so, that's ten times cooler in my book. To have the budget and drive to build it simply for private use is excellent. What's the brewlength?

[sam]

It is also acts as a shop window for me www.scotiawelding.co.uk , I can get 80ltr per brew.

[tobaccoblender]

That's funny- you and I like metal fabbing, bikes and making beer! Let me know if you get bored of my questions. So, is that a heat exchanger in the lower right of the pic showing the fv's in the white tiled area ? Does that little 90deg tail mean you dump the hot water to drain? Do you have any cooling system or just ambient?

[sam]

Yes! heat exchanger cooling hot wort to 20deg with mains filtered cold water which is heated to 73deg during the cooling of the wort, this is then transferred back to the HLT via the copper pipe. The 90 deg tail was not finished when the pic was taken, this is where the cooled wort is transferred to the FV via transfer hose. The fv has a dimpled cooling jacket and is cooled using a cornelius underbar cooler. if you double click on the image it should take you to the photobucket page and you can see the complete build there.

[tobaccoblender]

Well done- I take my hat off to you- that's a hell of alot of work you've accomplished- and to a very high standard. That's a great boil you've got going- do you get any problems with wort caramelising on the element? Might I offer a piece of hard-won advice? (as I said, just tell me to get lost if I'm being presumptious) It might not matter so much if your beers are very fast turnover, but if any of them will ever get bottled, or you age a strong one for a couple of months, you should consider not using those threaded SS ball valves. They are great for many non- wort/beer applications, but where the theaded pipe is screwed into the valve body and comes to rest somewhere near the internal shoulder, there is almost always a bit of female thread exposed and this area is a terrible bug trap. No matter how you leave the system to soak or circulate (if you sanitize like that) or how long you pump steam through it, usually some bugs will survive, and sometimes enough to give you problems. It's very tedious but really the only way is to use weld-up ones or nitrile-seated, flanged butterfly valves. I've spent years of my life chasing infections in breweries and I know what a depressing pain in the bum they can be- let alone very hard on a business...

[sam]

I have not had any problems with carmelising the element cleans up after each brew nicely, I dont bottle my beers either I use 4.5 gallon pins sometimes bag in a box or if I am heading to a festival or party elsewhere I use st/stl pins and the widge system which is a float which allows you to take the beer from the top and save on settling time. I understand what you are saying about the ball valve but there are too many to take the butterfly valve route and touch wood have not had any problems as yet. I usually get through the 18 gallon within the month, may sound extravagant but for what it costs to brew why not? p.s. and it tastes better than anything sold in the village.

[tobaccoblender]

Good on ya!

[Steve Foster]

Lovely work. Curious to know the source of the stainless mud guards. Did you fabricate them?
Cheers
Steve

[sam]

Cheers, they were purchased on fleabay but manufactured by Wassell but I only searched for stailess mudguard which brought a lot more up, At first I thought they were seconds but have been assured they are of the quality that they are willing to send out. They are presentable but not perfect.

Sam