Wheel Bearings
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- Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
- Posts: 2
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Wheel Bearings
I've just renewed the wheel bearings (cush Drive) on my 450 Desmo. Only 'sealed' ones were available instead of the open cage type originally fitted. Any potential problems or good enough for the job in hand?
- manitoufs
- Mariana
- Posts: 34
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- Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
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IMHO they are superior to the original open bearings. Modern bikes use the sealed units exclusively. Just consider it an upgrade.
When installing them be sure to press them in by applying force to the outer race only. Pushing on the inner race can damage 'em. Putting them in the freezer for a while and applying a little heat to the hub will make it easier.
The opposite applies when installing on a shaft.
When installing them be sure to press them in by applying force to the outer race only. Pushing on the inner race can damage 'em. Putting them in the freezer for a while and applying a little heat to the hub will make it easier.
The opposite applies when installing on a shaft.
George
65 250 Scrambler (2), 64 Monza, 72 250 Scrambler, 73 750 Sport (2)
74 GT (2), 87 F1, 90 750 Sport, 04 Multistrada, 06 Sport Classic
65 250 Scrambler (2), 64 Monza, 72 250 Scrambler, 73 750 Sport (2)
74 GT (2), 87 F1, 90 750 Sport, 04 Multistrada, 06 Sport Classic
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- Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:19 am
- Location: Perth W.Australia
Wheel bearings
Is it possible to buy replacement seals for wheel bearings? (750 Duck?).
- BevHevSteve
- SITE OWNER
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if the seals need to be renewed, then so does the bearing....... just replace the bearing[s] and be done with it. no need to install any seal again.
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
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- Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:19 am
- Location: Perth W.Australia
I have removed the old bearings from the rear wheel of my GT 750 as they were dry and seized after years of non use. First new bearing went in OK. Turns freely. Second bearing turned nicely until I installed it. Popped it out cleaned everything then popped it back in, this time rotated outer bearing case by about 70 degrees and still very stiff to turn. Did it a few more times, each time turning the outer bearing case about 70 degrees. I can still turn the bearing with my finger but it feels rough compared to the good side.
I assume the hole in the wheel is out of round?
Any hints are what to do?
I'm all sworn out.
Geoff
I assume the hole in the wheel is out of round?
Any hints are what to do?
I'm all sworn out.
Geoff
- BevHevSteve
- SITE OWNER
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 8:53 pm
- Location: Lafayette, California
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possibly:
the bearing spacer is just a bit too short so the bearing is loaded when installed all the way. I have seen this and simply not pounded the bearing in *all the way home* to cure, or, made a new bearing spacer.
the bearing spacer is just a bit too short so the bearing is loaded when installed all the way. I have seen this and simply not pounded the bearing in *all the way home* to cure, or, made a new bearing spacer.
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
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- Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:19 am
- Location: Perth W.Australia
BevHevSteve,
The bearing is stiff before it is in all the way. About 1/3 in it's OK. 2/3 in it's stiff. All the way in it's the same. It's not touching the spacer.
Another question, how hard should it be pressing against the spacer? Should you be able to move the spacer (side to side) with a screwdriver or should it be firmly held between the bearings?
Geoff
The bearing is stiff before it is in all the way. About 1/3 in it's OK. 2/3 in it's stiff. All the way in it's the same. It's not touching the spacer.
Another question, how hard should it be pressing against the spacer? Should you be able to move the spacer (side to side) with a screwdriver or should it be firmly held between the bearings?
Geoff