New ignition system: need advice!

Post your 'Electrical & Gauges' FAQs, comments & questions regarding Ducati motorcycles here.
andybaggies
Mariana
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2018 12:52 pm

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by andybaggies »

currently have the #5 curve chosen but only because I had read somewhere that someone liked this setting after trying several others.
Well first off I got it completely wrong my previous post - curve #7 has max advance at 28 degrees and curve #5 is the one with 34 degrees max advance i.e. 2 degrees higher than standard. And yes Rick, I've also read the same somewhere on the web, no doubt the same post.

I reckon I'll start with the default curve 2 and adjust from there depending how it drives. And as you say mounting the box in the space that was taken up by the rear airbox certainly provides ease of access.
the old tab washer has an indent on the ID that locks/aligns it with the key slot but it can't do this with the Sachse wheel guide sleeve
I managed to use the tab washer by gentle filing of the tab.
I'm not sure I understand your generator light question but I will try to answer
As you surmised the Darmah used the GEN light to indicate the running voltage and will turn on below ~12v & above ~15v thereby giving an indication of the state of charging system. This functionality as standard is provided by a horrid voltmeter that takes up yet more space (and doesn't always work) but can be provided by some reg/recs. I've fitted a small LED voltmeter that does the same on my daily driver, a Cagiva V Raptor natch, with the added advantage of flashing when the bike is not running giving the impression of an alarm. I may see if I can squeeze one of these into the original GEN lamp.
YEAH! Test riding and relearning how to ride a bike tomorrow.....
Enjoy & keep it upright :vroom:

Andy B
rjk40
750 GT
Posts: 173
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:54 am
Location: Malabar, Florida

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by rjk40 »

Hi Rick,

Is the little can in front of your Sachse ignition module the turn signal relay, that normally sits inside the headlamp housing?
User avatar
81mhr900ss
Parallel Twin
Posts: 127
Joined: Tue May 31, 2016 3:49 pm

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by 81mhr900ss »

Yes; on an 81 MHR the headlamp shell is empty except for bulbs and wiring. That little can is my blinkie flasher.
rjk40
750 GT
Posts: 173
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:54 am
Location: Malabar, Florida

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by rjk40 »

Thanks kindly, Rick, for the info and the prompt reply.

I like the idea of locating the blinker relay outside the headlamp shell, as it makes replacement so much easier. Gutting the headlamp shell for any reason is not my idea of a good time.

On my '75 860GT resto, I had to make a new wiring harness (gotta love those wiring diagrams done in Italian...), so the small change of the relocation of the relay is no big deal.

Regards,
Richard
User avatar
81mhr900ss
Parallel Twin
Posts: 127
Joined: Tue May 31, 2016 3:49 pm

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by 81mhr900ss »

Hi Richard: my first Ducati was a 75 860GT! All sorts of goodies packed inside the headlamp shell. It's good that these bikes are relatively basic; keeps wiring simple.
rjk40
750 GT
Posts: 173
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:54 am
Location: Malabar, Florida

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by rjk40 »

To MHR:

I apologize in advance if my question seems a bit lame:

Since you velcroed the igniton module to the convex curve of the fender,
did you take any measures to mount it flat?
Or, was there enough"grip" to ease any concern?
I am at the point of mounting the module.
Thanks in advance.
User avatar
81mhr900ss
Parallel Twin
Posts: 127
Joined: Tue May 31, 2016 3:49 pm

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by 81mhr900ss »

Just one piece of Velcro worked fine; enough contact area despite the curvature of the rear fender.
Last edited by 81mhr900ss on Fri Aug 07, 2020 11:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
rjk40
750 GT
Posts: 173
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:54 am
Location: Malabar, Florida

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by rjk40 »

Thanks, MHR,

I appreciate the info.

And yes, I did see the ground connection you mention.

I fully appreciate the essence of good grounding. In restoring my 1971 Chevelle, it became
obvious when I was putting in new wiring harnesses, how corrosion at the sheet metal grounds,
aka "Fisher Body" in the General Motors vernacular, and how corrosion affects conductance, readily confirmed by my handy ohmmeter.
Fortunately, these issues are often exposed by removing an old harness, then easily fixed.

I have a new Rick's regulator, as well as a new fuse block using current fuse technology, so the hookup might be a tad different.

Regards,
Richard
User avatar
81mhr900ss
Parallel Twin
Posts: 127
Joined: Tue May 31, 2016 3:49 pm

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by 81mhr900ss »

My new fuse box. Note that the spare fuse is in use, a 30A in between the Shendingen rec/reg and the battery. I've attached a sketch too to show the wiring path note the rec/reg fuse size is wrong, shows 20A instead of 30A. This just adds a little more protection to the bike. I also have 7.5A fuses installed instead of 8A because that's what I had available:
Image
Image
rjk40
750 GT
Posts: 173
Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:54 am
Location: Malabar, Florida

Re: New ignition system: need advice!

Post by rjk40 »

Thanks again for the info.

I really like your idea of "conservative" fusing; it makes good sense to baby these babies.

The Rick's regulator instructions are a bit different: they say to find the alternator's highest voltage across each pair of stator wires,
using all combinations of pairing. If the stator is three-wire, connect the pair of wires that gives the highest reading, to the regulator yellow
wires, and cap off the other wire. Obviously, this must be done with the engine running, and I am a ways from being there.

I've also added micro relays to carry the heavier currents (headlight, ignition, etc) instead of the "normal" process of the actual switches doing the carrying.
Hopefully, this will extend the life of those switches that are most vulnerable. The micro relays all take about 80 milliamps to energize, so their
load is quite small, the consumption being more than offset by one LED/1156 incandescent replacement. I mounted the relays on a piece of aluminum stock, where the rear cylinder air box used to mount (since I am no longer using the NOS air boxes).

Lastly, I have retrofitted the dash lights with the LED kit bought from Steve, making my own diode arrangement to take care of the turn signal
polarity issue. And, I have retrofitted LED turn signal bulbs, and purchased a "smart" blinker relay (to solve the hyperflashing issue), from Super Bright LEDs in Missouri.
I am trying to keep the load on the alternator as low as possible. The difference in current draw between the incandescents and LEDs is very significant: the 1156 LED is 0.18 amp vs 1.75 amp on the incandescent. The 1157 LED is 0.5 and 0.17 amps, vs 0.56 and 2.01 amps for the incandescent. Quite a saving, and although the LEDs are initially expensive, they last a long time,
and the ones from Super Bright have a stock bulb housing, and fit nicely inside the lamp housing.

The big unknown with the LEDs will be whether or not the pulsating DC off the alternator will be "smoothed" enough to keep the LEDs from
flickering, since they are way more sensitive than filaments.

Regards,
Richard
Post Reply

Return to “Electrical & Gauges Shop”