IGNITION MOD FOR FAST STARTING
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 11:22 pm
1982 Darmah.
With a simple relay from the auto store, some nice wire and appropriate connectors.
Mount the relay somewhere and connect the main wire from your relay to the relay to the Battery side of the starter relay with a 10 amp inline fuse. Connect a wire from the coil side of the starter relay (goes to the starter button)to the coil side of your new relay. If your relay needs a coil ground, supply one to it.Pay attention to the starter button polarity. If the starter button grounds the starter relay, make it ground your relay. ( I will double check this and edit a correction later) (your new relay will now close when you press the start button). With an appropriate collection of connectors, you now make up a harness to supply power to the coil side of the Ballast Resistors. You can chop/splice the original loom if you wish. I chose not to.
You are finished.
Next start, the bike will start on the first compression.
The coils get power by a very circuitous route, then the power runs through the Ballast (dropping ) resistors to the coil. With a good 12 volt battery and the engine cranking, the coils are seeing about 6-7 volts or less. When the bike is running and the alternator is charging at 13 volts, the coils are running at about 10-11 volts.
Its all dependent on the accumulated resistance along this power path to the coils that runs through your RH handlebar (kill switch).
By adding the relay, you bypass all this resistance and the Ballast Resistors and put battery power right to the coils. The cranking starter will draw the battery down to around 8-9 volts and the coils will be right there at the same voltage. These 2-3 extra volts on these coils makes an amazing difference !
As soon as it fires, you release the starter button and the system reverts back to normal.
Wish I had done this years ago. Would have saved a lot of starter and starter drive wear and tear..
I was going to make a drawing but cannot figure out how to upload it to this forum....
Cheers
With a simple relay from the auto store, some nice wire and appropriate connectors.
Mount the relay somewhere and connect the main wire from your relay to the relay to the Battery side of the starter relay with a 10 amp inline fuse. Connect a wire from the coil side of the starter relay (goes to the starter button)to the coil side of your new relay. If your relay needs a coil ground, supply one to it.Pay attention to the starter button polarity. If the starter button grounds the starter relay, make it ground your relay. ( I will double check this and edit a correction later) (your new relay will now close when you press the start button). With an appropriate collection of connectors, you now make up a harness to supply power to the coil side of the Ballast Resistors. You can chop/splice the original loom if you wish. I chose not to.
You are finished.
Next start, the bike will start on the first compression.
The coils get power by a very circuitous route, then the power runs through the Ballast (dropping ) resistors to the coil. With a good 12 volt battery and the engine cranking, the coils are seeing about 6-7 volts or less. When the bike is running and the alternator is charging at 13 volts, the coils are running at about 10-11 volts.
Its all dependent on the accumulated resistance along this power path to the coils that runs through your RH handlebar (kill switch).
By adding the relay, you bypass all this resistance and the Ballast Resistors and put battery power right to the coils. The cranking starter will draw the battery down to around 8-9 volts and the coils will be right there at the same voltage. These 2-3 extra volts on these coils makes an amazing difference !
As soon as it fires, you release the starter button and the system reverts back to normal.
Wish I had done this years ago. Would have saved a lot of starter and starter drive wear and tear..
I was going to make a drawing but cannot figure out how to upload it to this forum....
Cheers