help with the fuse box on the 750GT

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rgierer
Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 2:48 pm
Location: Kansas City MO

help with the fuse box on the 750GT

Post by rgierer »

the bike a 1974 750GT. It has been in a carpenters shop since 1988. It came to me three weeks ago.
I went through carbs and the bike started but has never run consistently on both cylinders.

I have ordered the electronic igniton as the cost of points and condensers for a basic tune up make the electronic ignition look like a bargain.

Last night as I was working on it after running a few tests, I found the bike to have gone dead. After some exploring and tracing I found the first fuse, I think F1 to be poorly connected with the box. What I have is the connector seems to be poorly connected to the wiring. I suspect the metal tang holding the fuse is broken in some way. Is there a way to repair this?

If I take a small screw driver and wedge it in behind the tang the fuse seems to work and the bike comes to life and I have a headlight and electricity to the points etc. My other accessories (brake and taillights) have stopped working and I am wondering if the fuse box may hold more surprises for me.

I am open to suggestions on the best way to approach this.

Thanks

Robin
new owner of 1974 750GT
rgierer
Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2011 2:48 pm
Location: Kansas City MO

Post by rgierer »

When I pull the fuse box for inspection it appears the rivet the fuse arm fits in is loose. I suspect cleaning and solder will be the ticket
new owner of 1974 750GT
machten
MHR / S2
Posts: 478
Joined: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:37 am
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Post by machten »

The Aprillia fuse boxes are often a source of problems on the roundcase twins and were often replaced. I've had problems with my Sport one from time to time and that is a real pain to fix if it happens on a ride as you have to take the seat base off to get to it. The next issue I get there will probably prompt me to replace the fuse box with a modern alternative, as it's all hidden away anyway. Not such a big deal on the GT, as access is easier but still a pain.

See another's experiences here..(and a good reference for matters "GT")

http://people.aapt.net.au/~arkay/ducati ... ckery.html

Kev
Rick
Cucciolo - the Lil Pup
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Aug 18, 2006 9:45 am

Post by Rick »

modern fuse blocks are so reliable and easy to troubleshoot, I'd install a new one while you mess around trying to get the old, corroded fuse block working again. Most autoparts stores will have them, or here's a web site:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html
I've spent way too much time with headlight shells that are stuffed full of almost impossible to trace or troubleshoot wiring- one of the most frustrating parts of restoring a motorcycle.
wdietz186
Cagiva Alazzura
Posts: 707
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 5:40 pm

Post by wdietz186 »

The fuseboxes were junk when new and unlike wine they don't improve with age. The original harness and switches were nothing to write home about either. If you are building a rider and not a correct resto the best route would be to rewire the whole bike.Heavier gauge wire,modern switches and a relay or two might even allow riding at night! Bear in mind the alternator on the 750 is barely able to keep up with the ign. and brake light draw so find the biggest battery that fits and use a trickle charger often. There are upgrades for it that will allow headlight usage too. The easiest and cheapest being an ST2 alt. rotor but they are pretty hard to find. I think Road and Race in Australia sell an upgraded rotor as well.
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