Stator

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:37 am

Okay, here it is so far. Took the '80 900SS to the local Ducati Guru to have the pick-ups adjusted (yes, he has the proper tool) and have him sync the carbs (40 Dellorto's). While there he noticed that the battery was not charging. Further investigation showed a dead short between the leads (2) coming from the stator. There was also continuity from each wire to the cases. Bad stator, right? Call a friend who could possibly have some used parts and yes he probably has one, come and take a look and get it. He had one still installed in the side case and it had .6 ohms resistance between the leads and no continuity from the leads to the case. Great. The resistance was way lower than the bad one so I took it home and installed it in the Duc. Charged up the battery, started the beast up (bruises on the back of my leg, thanks Dr. T), checked the voltage at the battery 12.65v, then took it for a warm up ride around the sub during which it seemed to not be performing correctly. Not as crisp on the throttle as I remember. Parked it while running and checked the voltage once again. 11.23

Total loss ignition. What should I do next? I'm thinking voltage regulator or new stator. The big question is should there be continuity/resistance reading between the leads coming from the stator?

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:33 pm

I should know this but can`t remember. Sorry. I`d check for you but my bike is`nt here. But what I wanted to say is the insulation on the wires going to the stator are prone to failure through heat and oil over the passage of time. Maybe check your continuity at the stator where the wires join onto it rather than at the end of the wires. My very thin understanding of alternators is a coil of wire, run a magnet over it and you get AC current. So...........I guess you should have continuity........
As for the regulator. Those standard Duc ones are pretty crappy in my book. They`ve gone on both my bikes and now some aftermarket Jap ones are in their place and doing nicely.

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 4:24 pm

Thanks lumpy. I figured that there was supposed to be continuity between the leads, but I would like to know what the resistance reading should be. That would tell me if the stator is close to failing. I did check at the connection to the stator itself and everything was cool. Methinks a new regulator is in order. Elsewhere on this forum someone was asking how to bench test the VR. Sure would be good info as the old knee doesn't like starting the Duc anymore. Might have to let it go. The bike, not the knee.

Later
Gordon

bobnorton · Post by **bobnorton** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:20 am

Hi Gordon, don't give up!!, my problems were much worse, 67 250 6volt Ducati single with 60 watt alt, converted to 12v now with podronics regulator orriginal alternator works fine after i modified it.

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:31 am

Hi Bob. I'm not giving up on getting to the root of the problem, but as the body gets older, it's getting harder on the joints to do certain things, such as kicking the Duc over. I have starter rollers which make it very easy, but I can't take them with me on rides. Maybe have to start looking for hills to park it on.

Gordon

Lumpy · Post by **Lumpy** » Mon Aug 17, 2009 2:12 pm

Hang in there Gordon. Just recently I was out for a ride and parked the SS to grab a coffee. I came out and there was an elderly gent standing at the SS. I wandered over and he informed me he had only just sold his mid 70`s 750SS due to the riding position being a little too aggresive. Now I`m only guessing here, I`ll admit I really did want to ask but thought it would be rude, I would have pegged this guy at well into his seventies and hey, maybe even older. But he was`nt done for yet,
no-sir-ee, he`d bought himself a V twin Suzuki that he got around on now but "only when the sunshine was singing love songs to the buttercups" as he put it.
The best part was when he gave a nudge with his elbow and said "are`nt those electric starts something hey".
Great when you see old boys still amped on motorsickles, even better that something moves in them when they spot an old Duc................

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:02 pm

Success? I cleaned up some of the connections and gave it another try with the voltmeter. I get 14-14.6 volts at idle from the stator, which rises as the revs are increased to 15v+. At the battery I get 11.9 at idle to 12.9 at 4000 rpm's. Seems everything is OK right now. What do you think?

Gordon

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 1:48 am

GHamilton wrote: <snip> At the battery I get <snip> 12.9 at 4000 rpm's. Seems everything is OK right now. What do you think?

Gordon

Hi Gordon,

Sounds low. You should really be seeing nearer to 14v thru the reg at those revs - this is what I get on my 79 SSD. Otherwise, you won't be re-charging the battery, especially if you have the lights on.

Sorry, I don't know what the unregulated output of the alternator is, except I think you should be looking at its current output rather than the voltage. Have a read here, for example
http://tinyurl.com/kl5njb

The SS altenator is 12v, 200w i.e. around 16 amp.

HTH

Craig

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 4:31 am

Hi Craig. Thanks for the info. I'll check the amperage next time I start it up. I started checking why the headlight was coming on when the ignition switch was turned on and found some wires had removed themselves from their connectors' so I've been working on that recently. Also the ignition switch was replaced and I think it's wired incorrectly or is the wrong type. I'll be checking it later today. I'm hoping that the low voltage reading out of the r/r was due to the headlight being on. More later.

Gordon

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:17 am

Just took readings. Here's what I have.
Stator volts @ idle-15v. @3000rpm surge to 24v
Stator amps@ idle-13a
R/R volts @ idle taken at battery terminals-15v. @3000rpm-16.11v. @4500rpm-16.29v.
Looks like the R/R is doing its job. Now if only it would stop raining I could give it a road test.

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:22 pm

GHamilton wrote: R/R volts @ idle taken at battery terminals-15v. @3000rpm-16.11v. @4500rpm-16.29v.
Looks like the R/R is doing its job. Now if only it would stop raining I could give it a road test.

Hi Gordon,

Keep a careful eye on the electrolyte level. At those voltages, you stand a good chance of boiling the battery, with attendant disastrous consequences ...

(Of course, your meter could be over-reading).

Ciao

Craig

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:27 pm

Thanks Craig. I'll definitely be watching the whole electrical system. I don't usually go for extended rides so it won't be hard. Sure would be nice if someone would put up what should be going on instead of all this speculation and angst.

Gordon

GHamilton · Post by **GHamilton** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:21 pm

Went for a shakedown ride today. The ignition switch was incorrectly wired and the lights would come on when the bike was turned on. Temporarily took care of that and all seemed well on the 40 mile ride today. Will have to look to see if there is a short somewhere in the lighting circuit. Other than that, the ride was wonderful. Perfect weather, good roads, and not a lot of traffic. Coffee at the new Cafe Racer shop in Ypsilanti and an uneventful ride home. Feels good to be back on the Duc.

Gordon

<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Stator

Stator

s2

Stator

stator

never give in

Stato

Re: Stato

Stator

update

Re: update

Stator

Stator