wanted : rear wheel for darmah
OK just checked, Mine are 260mm drilled 6 bolt. They look alost new,im not sure they were ever used. They are stamped....12 86A BREMBO MIN THICKNESS 5.8 mm Ayone know what they are from?
79 Darmah
78 900 GTS
86 F1B
80 SSD
02 Harley FXD
72 H2 750 triple
08 KTM 300XC
there has yet to be a motorcycle line made that is as satisfying to ride, hear and look at as the ducati bevels
78 900 GTS
86 F1B
80 SSD
02 Harley FXD
72 H2 750 triple
08 KTM 300XC
there has yet to be a motorcycle line made that is as satisfying to ride, hear and look at as the ducati bevels
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Craig in France
- Paso 906
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:58 pm
- Location: Montpellier, France
-
Craig in France
- Paso 906
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:58 pm
- Location: Montpellier, France
-
BevHevSteve
- SITE OWNER
- Posts: 2325
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 8:53 pm
- Location: Lafayette, California
- Contact:
same as per original at 6.5mm thick
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
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Craig in France
- Paso 906
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:58 pm
- Location: Montpellier, France
Not necesarily - it depends on a) what has caused the wear; b) how you're going to treat them now.hashashan wrote:so how thick should be new ones?
I saw 6mm thick discs on ebay? does that mean that they are nearly dead?
To explain: brakes are a friction device, and this friction inevitably entails a loss of material of the contact materials. Given this, the general principle is that the material of the brake pad should wear faster than the material of the brake disc.
As regards our bikes, this principle means, for example, that it is generally considered to be not a good idea to use sintered brake pads with Brembo cast iron brake discs. This is because the sintered metal can be harder than the cast iron and will wear them out pretty quickly. Unfortunately, this is not always taken into account by owners, particularly when sintered pads were all the rage - which is why a second-hand disc may now be approaching its wear limit.
2. And of course, the same applies to you as the new owner. Install pads of the right composition - and don't go screaming your bike around a race track - and a 6mm disc will probably outlast your ownership of the bike
In over 20,000 miles, the discs on my RGS Corsa are the same thickness as when I got it ... But I'm a careful braker.
HTH
Craig
Hi,
Well as I found out, driving around with a cracked wheel could lead to problems. A chunk off my wheel came off while I was cruizing at 140Kph and also busted my inside tire
However I managed not to fall off the bike and stopped it *I think my guardian angel will be tired soon saving my donkey all the time *
Ironically my new wheels arrived the next day. Now Ill need to mount them.
The peculiar thing is that the bearing inside the rear wheel(yes there is only one, the other one is on the sprocket part ( does there need to be another one on the wheel? I do have two on the old one)) is 20mm ID and the axle is 18mm OD. The old wheel had some sort of a tube insterted between the bearings so that it could be mounted on the 18mm axle, does it need to be that way? how does the tube come out? tried hiting it with a hammer, it doesnt move.
about the brake discs :
All is left to do is to fix all the oil leaks, replace the steering damper, polish the bike and voila .... as good as new
Well as I found out, driving around with a cracked wheel could lead to problems. A chunk off my wheel came off while I was cruizing at 140Kph and also busted my inside tire
However I managed not to fall off the bike and stopped it *I think my guardian angel will be tired soon saving my donkey all the time *
Ironically my new wheels arrived the next day. Now Ill need to mount them.
The peculiar thing is that the bearing inside the rear wheel(yes there is only one, the other one is on the sprocket part ( does there need to be another one on the wheel? I do have two on the old one)) is 20mm ID and the axle is 18mm OD. The old wheel had some sort of a tube insterted between the bearings so that it could be mounted on the 18mm axle, does it need to be that way? how does the tube come out? tried hiting it with a hammer, it doesnt move.
about the brake discs :
I drilled 4 additional holes so that it could be mounted in the 6 hole configuration and it actually worked. so there is no serious problem mounting 6 holed discs on 4 holed wheels and vice versa.BevHevSteve wrote:FWIW - 4 bolt disks have a different offset to 6 bolt disks so if anything before you go ruining your disks by drilling holes in them, put them on the wheel with 1 bolt and check if the spacing is ok for what you suggest and do please let us know.
All is left to do is to fix all the oil leaks, replace the steering damper, polish the bike and voila .... as good as new
lucky man
You are truely blessed hashashan. To have a wheel fly apart at 140kph and to still be able to sit at a keyboard and tell the tale is nothing short of a miracle. Was it front or back wheel??? I could be wrong but I think I remember from one of your posts your in Israel, in which case it is indeed the holy land and you just proved it.
I have FPS wheels on my SS and it`s been some time since they were off but from memory the spacer or tube between your bearings is in there so that when you tighten up your axle the inner race of your bearings are`nt loaded up with side thrust and it should be there.
I do beleive that yes there should be 2 bearings in the wheel and one in the sprocket carrier making 3 in total.
Not sure about the ID senario however I would be putting new bearings in if it were mine so check with your friendly local bearing supplier and he can possibly hook you up with bearings of the correct ID. I have always paid the extra and gone for good quality bearings rather than the cheap Chinese versions available, which some argue are quite ok but given their application I figured it money well spent.
I have FPS wheels on my SS and it`s been some time since they were off but from memory the spacer or tube between your bearings is in there so that when you tighten up your axle the inner race of your bearings are`nt loaded up with side thrust and it should be there.
I do beleive that yes there should be 2 bearings in the wheel and one in the sprocket carrier making 3 in total.
Not sure about the ID senario however I would be putting new bearings in if it were mine so check with your friendly local bearing supplier and he can possibly hook you up with bearings of the correct ID. I have always paid the extra and gone for good quality bearings rather than the cheap Chinese versions available, which some argue are quite ok but given their application I figured it money well spent.
Bearings
My recollection, based on the exploded diagram of the rear wheel for a Darmah in the parts manual, is that the axle rides inside the tube, as opposed to riding against the inner diameter of each bearing. Take a look at the diagram, and you will see that the tube is "stepped" on each end to "seat" each of the two bearings for the wheel; one bearing on each side. But you can probably see that already, since there is apparently only one bearing, according to your post.hashashan wrote:...The old wheel had some sort of a tube insterted between the bearings so that it could be mounted on the 18mm axle, does it need to be that way? how does the tube come out? tried hiting it with a hammer, it doesnt move.
The trick to removing and installing the bearings is to do it VERY carefully, so as not to damage/mar the surface of wheel where the bearings are fitted. The best tool to use is a high quality press. Otherwise, a hammer/mallet will work, but only with the highest amount of patience and caution. Either way, it is easy to (1) mess up your wheel bearing races, and (2) deform the axle tube.
With the presence of both bearings, you will need to take a rod or socket that has an outer diameter just a hair smaller than the bearing tube, and slowly press (or tap if using a hammer/mallet) out the bearing from opposite side of the wheel. Then you can remove the tube, and then carefully press/tap out the other bearing. I made the mistake (more than once) of simply using the bearing tube to tap out the last bearing. Doing so caused the tube to deform on the end, and I couldn't fit a bearing on it any longer, and had to buy a new one each time.
Now, as many of you know, removing is often far easier than installing. Take your time and make sure the bearing is squarely installed and fully seated.
As always, I invite any comments on the accuracy of this post and please offer any other advice that may have been omitted. Hope this helps!
"Red hair and black leather, my favorite color scheme."
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Craig in France
- Paso 906
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:58 pm
- Location: Montpellier, France
Well, you're a very lucky man, hashashan! Glad you're still with us ...
Bearings:
1. I always change the wheel bearings in a replacement wheel. Bearings are cheap and easily available. (And remember to check them every time you change the tire - seals can fail and the bearing can then be quickly destroyed).
2. Generally, please don't hit things with a hammer unless you know you absolutely must (seized swing arm bushes for example, altho' even these you can get out without using a hammer). The spacer you have been hitting is made to a critical length to ensure the bearings do not get crushed
You do not want to damage either it or the wheel hub.
3. In a rear wheel, you need 4 bearings, as marked with red arrows below
2x go in the sprocket mount. These measure id20 x od47 x 14 and are known as a 6204 bearing. You need ones with a rubber seal on both sides, known as a 62042RS. You can buy a higher specification bearing if you wish - talk to a bearing supplier.
2x go into the wheel hub. These measure id20 x od42 x 16 and are known as aa 630004 bearing. Again, you need rubber seals both sides etc etc ...
Removing the old bearings and installing the new ones is not difficult, but you do need to know what you're doing. There's not enuf time or space to go into that here, so if you're not confident, I suggest you give the job to a good mechanic.
HTH and Good Luck!
Craig
Bearings:
1. I always change the wheel bearings in a replacement wheel. Bearings are cheap and easily available. (And remember to check them every time you change the tire - seals can fail and the bearing can then be quickly destroyed).
2. Generally, please don't hit things with a hammer unless you know you absolutely must (seized swing arm bushes for example, altho' even these you can get out without using a hammer). The spacer you have been hitting is made to a critical length to ensure the bearings do not get crushed
You do not want to damage either it or the wheel hub.3. In a rear wheel, you need 4 bearings, as marked with red arrows below
2x go in the sprocket mount. These measure id20 x od47 x 14 and are known as a 6204 bearing. You need ones with a rubber seal on both sides, known as a 62042RS. You can buy a higher specification bearing if you wish - talk to a bearing supplier.
2x go into the wheel hub. These measure id20 x od42 x 16 and are known as aa 630004 bearing. Again, you need rubber seals both sides etc etc ...
Removing the old bearings and installing the new ones is not difficult, but you do need to know what you're doing. There's not enuf time or space to go into that here, so if you're not confident, I suggest you give the job to a good mechanic.
HTH and Good Luck!
Craig
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BevHevSteve
- SITE OWNER
- Posts: 2325
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 8:53 pm
- Location: Lafayette, California
- Contact:
Since on the subject, this tool above is the BEST and EASIEST thing I have ever used to remove wheel bearings. There is no way to ovalize the bearing hole in the wheel using it and they are cheap.
10+ years ago I bought this for more than $200 from KOWA TOOLS, now I sell them from Motion Pro for $58 - same tool, WAY less money.
http://shop.bevelheaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=797 if you want to buy one
Steve Allen (925)798-BEVL[2385] Ride'm, Don't Hide'm
Ducati/Euro Spares -> https://Store.BevelHeaven.com
Hello,
yes it was the rear wheel
now for the sad news.
although I manged to put the discs on the wheels, the front wheel now seems not to fit argggggggggg
the spacing between the discs is too large. (10mm)
Is there a difference between the 6 bolt discs and the 4 bolt discs besides the holes? I mean the height of the disc.
could anyone be so kind to measure the distance between two holes on the oposite sides of the wheel(I mean the right and the left) and tell me what is the distance. or the height of the disc. any information will be blessed.
another question is do you think it will be possible to grind 5mm from each side of the wheel so that it will fit?
yes it was the rear wheel
now for the sad news.
although I manged to put the discs on the wheels, the front wheel now seems not to fit argggggggggg
the spacing between the discs is too large. (10mm)
Is there a difference between the 6 bolt discs and the 4 bolt discs besides the holes? I mean the height of the disc.
could anyone be so kind to measure the distance between two holes on the oposite sides of the wheel(I mean the right and the left) and tell me what is the distance. or the height of the disc. any information will be blessed.
another question is do you think it will be possible to grind 5mm from each side of the wheel so that it will fit?
wheel spacers
Sorry Hashashan, I`m away from my bike at present and can`t measure anything but I just wanted to say please don`t grind your wheels!!! I`m sure other posts to follow will mention same.
I think maybe best to lay out your old and new parts individually side by side and see what is the offending part. Measure the hubs of the wheels, lay an old disc next to the new one on the floor and check the heights.
You don`t mention where it`s fouling but when fitting the wheel from the front I`ve always taken the calipers off the forks, but don`t disconnect the brake lines.
What ever you do, take your time and make sure it`s right. Maybe even call in someone in the know. Discs that don`t run true can grab, bearings that have been forced or clamped can fail. This is a front wheel and it might not be so forgiving as the rear was!!!
I think maybe best to lay out your old and new parts individually side by side and see what is the offending part. Measure the hubs of the wheels, lay an old disc next to the new one on the floor and check the heights.
You don`t mention where it`s fouling but when fitting the wheel from the front I`ve always taken the calipers off the forks, but don`t disconnect the brake lines.
What ever you do, take your time and make sure it`s right. Maybe even call in someone in the know. Discs that don`t run true can grab, bearings that have been forced or clamped can fail. This is a front wheel and it might not be so forgiving as the rear was!!!
I measured the old and new wheel and the thing is that there is a difference between the distance between the two sides of the discs.
I mean If I measure the distance between teh two places that the discs should be attached to there is a 10mm difference between them.
the thing is that originally the discs were 4 bolted and I added 4 more holes to make them fit the 6 bolt configuration.
The holes match, however there might be a difference between the "depth" of the discs.
The calipers are off, there is no way to put the wheel because it just wont come into the fork with the discs mounted.
I mean If I measure the distance between teh two places that the discs should be attached to there is a 10mm difference between them.
the thing is that originally the discs were 4 bolted and I added 4 more holes to make them fit the 6 bolt configuration.
The holes match, however there might be a difference between the "depth" of the discs.
The calipers are off, there is no way to put the wheel because it just wont come into the fork with the discs mounted.
I'm not exactly clear from your description what the problem is, but is this what Steve was referring to when earlier in this thread he said..
Kev
I don't have a six bolt wheel to compare, but I'm assuming if there are different offsets for 4 bolt and 6 bolt, then the wheel widths where the rotors fix to must be different (since the caliper points are fixed). - Which I think is what you are saying. If that is the case, then it seems the disc rotors are not interchangeable.FWIW - 4 bolt disks have a different offset to 6 bolt disks so if anything before you go ruining your disks by drilling holes in them, put them on the wheel with 1 bolt and check if the spacing is ok for what you suggest and do please let us know.
Kev