Anybody know where to source the wrinkle finish black for early Marzocchi forks & yokes?
I have some of the original finish still on my forks, and I've seen wrinkle finish black aerosols advertised as being correct for MG car dashboards, but I don't know how it compares.
Marzocchi black
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conti-mental
- Mach 3
- Posts: 84
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:12 am
- Location: Lancashire GB
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conti-mental
- Mach 3
- Posts: 84
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:12 am
- Location: Lancashire GB
Update!
I found an aerosol in the UK which, if used carefully, gives the right look.
It's a bumper (fender to you foreigners!) repair paint called U-Pol Plast texture coat 4, fine grain. It needs careful application, but once on, with light gloss overcoat (I use 2 pack), looks just fine.
It ain't cheap, though.
I found an aerosol in the UK which, if used carefully, gives the right look.
It's a bumper (fender to you foreigners!) repair paint called U-Pol Plast texture coat 4, fine grain. It needs careful application, but once on, with light gloss overcoat (I use 2 pack), looks just fine.
It ain't cheap, though.
No, bumpers are bumpers. Wings are fenders. Mudguards are fenders too... though on cars sometimes fenders are called quarter panels...conti-mental wrote:It's a bumper (fender to you foreigners!)
-Craig
Team YIKES! Motorsports
Team YIKES! Motorsports
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TONYDUCATI
Geoff's wrinkle finish
Geoff those forks and clamp are a bloody disgrace! Who told you to do that, Steve Craven? What you need is a paint which is designed to be sprayed into the bed of utes (pickups). It matches identically the texture of the original Ducati finish, however you then need to coat it with satin black as it isn't black itself.
They sell it in Melbourne.
Cheers,
TONY.
They sell it in Melbourne.
Cheers,
TONY.
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TONYDUCATI
Marzocchi Black
You CAN'T be a Richard Cranium Geoff, you're British.
I used to use that crinkle stuff in the mid 70's on Hondas. It develops a "tighter" crinkle when you put it in the oven, right?
Ya gotta try these things I suppose. I'm currently doing a NCR replica which has Marzocchis - but these get polished. Part of the detail was converting them to two bolt per side fender mounts. I turned off the excess on the lathe but that left part of the thread hole from the lower mounting points. When I had that Tigged, there was some internal warping and the staunchions wouldn't slide up and down freely. MANY hours of internal sanding later they work. I'd put up a pic but I'm too stupid to work out how.
TNY. [/img]
I used to use that crinkle stuff in the mid 70's on Hondas. It develops a "tighter" crinkle when you put it in the oven, right?
Ya gotta try these things I suppose. I'm currently doing a NCR replica which has Marzocchis - but these get polished. Part of the detail was converting them to two bolt per side fender mounts. I turned off the excess on the lathe but that left part of the thread hole from the lower mounting points. When I had that Tigged, there was some internal warping and the staunchions wouldn't slide up and down freely. MANY hours of internal sanding later they work. I'd put up a pic but I'm too stupid to work out how.
TNY. [/img]
Bevel Heads,
Your problems were mine too a couple of years ago and I spent some time to figure it out. And I am willing to give the secret away.
In my search for the right effect on the front fork and roundengine-cases of the Yellow Sport 74 there were no proffesional painters who could help me. In fact one car-painter told me, looking at a little piece of original paint left on the fork, that this paint-job was very badly done!! And in fact that was the secret. Don't look for special paint, I just used 2 component black paint. Don't think that the Ducati factory looked for expensive solutions (there was no primer used in the first place). Don't ask the professionals, they don't understand you because you ask for a "bad paintjob" in their eyes
. The secret lies in the way you spray!!! Use a very low pressure and leave the paint "thick" Language problem for me, I mean don't add thinner. First cover the fork with black, let it dry some time and add the 'black dots' on the black sprayed fork, beware not to spray too much or else the effect of the drops on the surface that give the semi matt effect will disappear!!! 
because the paint drops will meet eachother and make contact, you must avoid that. (Try it out on a exercise object before you use the fork)
So, good luck and be your own professional!
Let me know if you have succes!
Cheers,
Ruud (Haarlem)
Your problems were mine too a couple of years ago and I spent some time to figure it out. And I am willing to give the secret away.
In my search for the right effect on the front fork and roundengine-cases of the Yellow Sport 74 there were no proffesional painters who could help me. In fact one car-painter told me, looking at a little piece of original paint left on the fork, that this paint-job was very badly done!! And in fact that was the secret. Don't look for special paint, I just used 2 component black paint. Don't think that the Ducati factory looked for expensive solutions (there was no primer used in the first place). Don't ask the professionals, they don't understand you because you ask for a "bad paintjob" in their eyes
. The secret lies in the way you spray!!! Use a very low pressure and leave the paint "thick" Language problem for me, I mean don't add thinner. First cover the fork with black, let it dry some time and add the 'black dots' on the black sprayed fork, beware not to spray too much or else the effect of the drops on the surface that give the semi matt effect will disappear!!! because the paint drops will meet eachother and make contact, you must avoid that. (Try it out on a exercise object before you use the fork) So, good luck and be your own professional!
Let me know if you have succes!
Cheers,
Ruud (Haarlem)
authentic crincle look
Geoff, Max, Dog, Ryno, Tony, OZ,
In my opinion you all think wrong when you talk about a 'crinkle' paint.
Just take a very carefull look at what is left of the original job and what do you see! Not paint that has schrinked whith a skin that looks like when we have lived to be a hundred years or more, no way! What you see is little shining 
drops of paint who didn't sank in the other paint but remained to be drops on the surface. Let me know if you agree.
Groetjes,
Ruud
In my opinion you all think wrong when you talk about a 'crinkle' paint.
Just take a very carefull look at what is left of the original job and what do you see!
Not paint that has schrinked whith a skin that looks like when we have lived to be a hundred years or more, no way! What you see is little shining drops of paint who didn't sank in the other paint but remained to be drops on the surface. Let me know if you agree.Groetjes,
Ruud
Hello Ruud
You are correct of course, the finish looks like it was just badly done but the intention from the Marzocchi factory would have been to give their parts that finish all along.
Although what you suggest obviously works, in the spray booth at the factory they wouldnt have had the time to do it that way. And as you say, there was not even primer used, let alone a clear finish over the top. So there is obvioulsy a 'special' paint that produces that look straight out of the spray gun.
I was in my local hardware store looking at bench grinders the other day and what did I see? Almost the exact same finish (in green) that we are looking for, this is from one of those cheap Chinese brands. The commercially available crinkle finishes rely on adding at least two layers of paint after waiting a specific time after the first layer is sprayed. In a production situation they wouldnt go to all that bother. So maybe there is a certain additive in the paint that gives that effect?
Tony has been kind enough to provide me with the name of an automotive paint supplier here in Melbourne that may be able to supply the paint that I need. But as it is not black itself, will have to be painted black afterwards. But as it is only a couple of forks and clamps that need doing, I may try it your way if the end result is the same.
Tell me Ruud, after spraying the first layer, how do you spray the black dots on top? Or are you saying apply the dots with a fine paint brush?
Thanks for your help, mate
Joe
You are correct of course, the finish looks like it was just badly done but the intention from the Marzocchi factory would have been to give their parts that finish all along.
Although what you suggest obviously works, in the spray booth at the factory they wouldnt have had the time to do it that way. And as you say, there was not even primer used, let alone a clear finish over the top. So there is obvioulsy a 'special' paint that produces that look straight out of the spray gun.
I was in my local hardware store looking at bench grinders the other day and what did I see? Almost the exact same finish (in green) that we are looking for, this is from one of those cheap Chinese brands. The commercially available crinkle finishes rely on adding at least two layers of paint after waiting a specific time after the first layer is sprayed. In a production situation they wouldnt go to all that bother. So maybe there is a certain additive in the paint that gives that effect?
Tony has been kind enough to provide me with the name of an automotive paint supplier here in Melbourne that may be able to supply the paint that I need. But as it is not black itself, will have to be painted black afterwards. But as it is only a couple of forks and clamps that need doing, I may try it your way if the end result is the same.
Tell me Ruud, after spraying the first layer, how do you spray the black dots on top? Or are you saying apply the dots with a fine paint brush?
Thanks for your help, mate
Joe
OZ Duck,
In words the job looks more than it is in praktice. I think that when there is a production line of forks and enginecases you just begin spraying them black(don't try to do it carefully, it is just like a primer, it just needs some color) and after that return to the first object, which has dryed up a little bit, and finish it with the dots. If you spray long enough the paint will cover the surface ( just as is done in ordinairy paint-jobs) but the finish is just a very quick blast from the spraygun long enough to put some drops across the black surface. If you like what you see, you could have done a little too much so praktice the procedure.
Maybe there is a paint with a special "dot" effect but in my search that time, nobody could help me.
So that made me do it this way and I am very pleased with the result. A fellow 750 sport rider asked me to do his frontfork for him because it came so close to the original. The other yellow paint was done by a professional which had its price of course.
Rembrandt van Rijn didn't use special paint! He had skill.
Succes,
Ruud (Haarlem)
In words the job looks more than it is in praktice. I think that when there is a production line of forks and enginecases you just begin spraying them black(don't try to do it carefully, it is just like a primer, it just needs some color) and after that return to the first object, which has dryed up a little bit, and finish it with the dots. If you spray long enough the paint will cover the surface ( just as is done in ordinairy paint-jobs) but the finish is just a very quick blast from the spraygun long enough to put some drops across the black surface. If you like what you see, you could have done a little too much so praktice the procedure.
Maybe there is a paint with a special "dot" effect but in my search that time, nobody could help me.
So that made me do it this way and I am very pleased with the result. A fellow 750 sport rider asked me to do his frontfork for him because it came so close to the original. The other yellow paint was done by a professional which had its price of course.Rembrandt van Rijn didn't use special paint! He had skill.
Succes,
Ruud (Haarlem)