<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Thanks kindly, Craig, As usual you are a fount of meritorious wisdom. I took heed of the relative lack of usefulness of said "washers" in the shadow of sealed bearing replacements, and could see no reason for them, thus I trimmed a notch into them with my trusty Dremel to weaken their walls, tapped ...

Gotcha; fogging oil it is.

Thanks kindly.

That's a dilemma for me, since my bike will not be ready to ride for quite some time, and the tank will be off the bike. It's a bit heavy to lug on and off the bike when full of fuel, so I guess that I will wait for a more opportune time, closer to re-launching the bike onto the road before de-rusti...

Thanks, Steve. Second question: Then, do you coat the inside of the tank with a rust preventive, as for example KBS brand sealer? I see a lot of posts on that, both positive and negative, but do see the merit in the process, as it should prevent a recurrence of the rust. Regards, and Happy holidays,...

I really need help on this dilemma, and apologize if it has been covered in a previous post that I missed: trying to remove "caps" on rear wheel hub bearings, per photos in the following Flickr link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/124760992@N02/albums/72157703339475701 The caps are not obvious to me ...

To the League of Fine Gentlemen: Like most old bikes, my 1975 860GT requires getting rid of the rust that has accrued in the tank. I have read several online clips (none here that I have seen, and I have searched here...) touting the positive aspects of the product, "Metal Rescue", its absence of ac...

Gotcha; I finally figured that out.

Thanks for the info.

And yes indeed, I have gotten a new regulator from Steve, a "Rick's Regulator", which should cover the caviat you mentioned.
And thanks for that piece of info.

Regards,
Richard

Hi Tim,

Yeah, Syd's is in St Pete, on the opposite side of the state from me (I'm on the "Space Coast").

Thanks for the reminder. I had completely forgotten about that business (but at my age, forgetting is what I do best).

Regards,
Richard

Hi Craig, Thanks so much for the info. Since there is no bearing in the case (P/N 0759.49.400) that the alternator stator mounts into, I must conclude that the chamfered edge of the distance piece going toward the bearing in mention really means toward the center of the engine, and not outward. Ther...

Hi Craig. Oops! My bad. I goofed on the part number. The correct number should be 0759.88.040, which changes the description to "distance piece"'; so sorry for the blunder. The piece in question is the large ring to the lower right, in the drawing, and to the right of the rotor and stator assemblies...

First of all, I must apologize for not being more observant when disassembling the engine three years ago, and now am paying the price. Underneath the alternator stator, a "ring plug", p/n 0400.46.040 sits against a step in the alternator case, and, supposedly, holds the stator in position relative ...

Hi Steve, The instructions make no distinction about any initial adjustment beyond the initial static placement, with no reference to what stroke (compression/exhaust) must be used, nor if all of the cam gear dots must be pointing at each other. No way to know if these instructions are, like a previ...

Gentlemen, Please forgive me if I am re-stating the obvious: The original 860GT ignition is crankshaft-triggered to a stationary pickup, unlike a typical cam-triggered engine, where the camshaft drives the distributor, thus gets a trigger on every rotation of the crankshaft, whereas the cam-triggere...

Craig,

Thanks as always for the good info, and especially for the dimensions of the clutch pushrod pieces.

Regards,
Richard